A Journey to the Sublime at La Chèvre d’Or, Èze
Balanced on its craggy throne high above the Mediterranean, La Chèvre d’Or is the sort of place where legends—and perhaps a goat or two—seem to wander just out of sight. Nested in the heart of Èze, a medieval village pirouetting between sea and sky, this Relais & Châteaux wonder defies being labelled as simply a hotel. It’s a living storybook, brimming with legends, art, and a dash of Riviera whimsy.
THE GOLDEN GOAT’S WHISPER
Before you even set foot inside, Èze envelops you in its sensory ballet: groves of ancient olive, lemon, and almond trees twitch their leaves in the salty mistral, and the scent of rosemary and wildflowers dances through sunlit, labyrinthine cobblestone lanes.
Story has it that the violinist Zlatko Balokovic, wafting through those drowsy alleys in the 1930s, found himself guided by a golden-haired goat. She led him, with impeccable taste, to a statuesque, vine-draped manor perched above the Mediterranean. So bewitched was Balokovic that he bought and, over many years, restored the estate, sculpting the foundations of the now- mythical Château de la Chèvre d’Or. Some whisper that earlier still, coins from goat’s milk sales were hidden in the walls, a secret fortune later discovered to launch yet another chapter of intrigue.
No two are alike—each is an alcove of eccentric elegance, some carved around ancient walls, others scattered through historic cottages with secret terraces or dramatic Mediterranean views. A single night here, and you’ll find yourself pondering whether to sleep or simply press your hand to the cool stone, listening for centuries-old whispers.
A TABLE WITH THE MORNING SUN
Rise with the Riviera sun and let breakfast on La Chèvre d’Or’s terrace spoil you utterly. The horizon collapses into a blue infinity, the air perfumed with lavender and lemon blossoms. Choose Eggs Benedict, their hollandaise as silken as a sunbeam, or gently poached avocado eggs nestled among vibrant local greens. The buffet? Oh, it’s a parade of cloud-like mozzarella, pastries that change with the baker’s morning fancy, and sun-kissed fruit—a daily temptation best enjoyed with a coffee so strong it could wake the laziest Mediterranean morning.
FLIGHT ACCROSS RIVIERA CANVAS
Should you wish to swap cobbles for clouds, Heli Air Monaco stands ready— think of it as your magic carpet. The Côte d’Azur unfolds beneath you: St. Tropez, Cannes, Nice, Monaco—strung like pearls along the water’s edge. You may arrive in Monaco in minutes, as though you’d simply hopped to a neighbor’s garden party (an awfully glamorous neighbor, at that).
A VILLAGE PAINTED IN SUNLIGHT
Yet Èze itself is too enchanting to abandon for long. It’s an open-air gallery of stone and sunlight, each turn revealing sun-dappled squares, bursts of bougainvillea, and bronze cats sunning themselves on low walls. The village’s crown is its exotic garden, where cacti, succulents, and wild herbs cradle you above turquoise waves, accompanied by the medieval soundtrack of distant church bells and birdsong.
Wander from plaza to shaded archway, greeting the olive and citrus trees rooted in sunbaked earth, and follow the legendary Nietzsche Path as it weaves from the heart of the village through piney cliffside and down—a heady tableau of scent and light—toward the secret curve of Èze’s pebble beach.
A DAY OF GLAMOUR IN MONACO
Should you seek the sparkle of society, Monaco is a mere heartbeat away. Indulge in the hedonism of Nikki Beach at the Fairmont Hotel, where sea and casino views vie for your attention. Lunch is an affair of inventive plates— imagine a Sexy Salad tossed with shrimp, mango, and ambition, or Truffle Tuna Tartare that makes you wish you had two mouths. Recline on a sunbed by the pool, cocktail icy in hand, and join in the barefoot ballet of poolside dancing—where formality is the only thing unwelcome.
When the Mediterranean twilight glimmers, return to La Chèvre d’Or for a dinner worth a troubadour’s song.
A FEAST TO REMEMBER
To truly savor La Chèvre d’Or’s culinary wonders, plan your nights in delectable succession: dedicate one evening to Les Remparts, where dinner is a dramatic act under the open sky, and every plate is a sensuous Mediterranean tableau. Sink into the umami reverie of black truffle soufflé, lamb shoulder luxuriously braised with Nice olives and a whisper of orange, or luxuriate in lobster pasta light as sea foam. End with a Parisian pastry by Florent Margaillan—each bite soars with buttery finesse.
Reserve another night for the two-star Michelin restaurant, where dining becomes an intimate ritual and memory is woven on the palate. Here, the courses are culinary poetry: green tomato entwined with summer melon and myrtle, beef pierced by the brightness of cherry and wild herbs, pigeon seduced by mint, chocolate, and the smokiness of roasted peppers. Each creation arrives as a note in a harmonious composition—lingering, haunting, as intoxicating as a trace of perfume caught on a sunlit breeze.
RETREAT, REVIVE, REDISCOVER
All of this, and still the pools beckon. The infinity pool floats on the ridge, a limpid frame for endless sea and sky. Another, secluded among lush gardens, promises cool serenity with a dash of mystery. Sip something sparkling, bask in the golden afterglow, and let time itself melt away.
Let go of hurry. Here, the magic is not only in grand gestures but also in the murmur of the sea beyond your window, the aroma of fresh pastry, the laughter that echoes through sun-warmed courtyards.
THE HEART OF THE RIVIERA, SPELLED IN GOLD
La Chèvre d’Or is not just a hotel—it’s a legend wrapped in stone and kissed by sun, a place where reality shrugs off its grey coat and slips into something far more fabulous. At day’s end, as the terrace bathes in golden light and the Mediterranean performs its silent, ceaseless dance, you’ll wonder—with a smile—if it wasn’t a golden-haired goat who led you to this corner of paradise after all.
All the images are taken by Marta Romashina.
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