Acne par Frederic Malle

Two houses driven by the ambition to create a radically new aesthetic: Acne Studios and Éditions de Parfums Frédéric Malle converge at the intersection of fashion, perfumery, and art. Frédéric Malle and Jonny Johansson, founder and creative director of Acne Studios, have always chosen to explore alternative paths, embracing a multidisciplinary vision of their art and a commitment to absolute creative freedom. This shared approach has given birth to a unique collaboration: the first Acne Studios fragrance for Frédéric Malle. A neoclassical scent with an irreverent twist, it is vibrant yet comforting, innocent yet magnetic.

"I appreciate that Acne Studios has a strong, recognizable DNA, and I wanted to create something that would be just as recognizable."

Suzy Le Helley, the creative nose behind this project, has crafted a composition using a generous amount of aldehydes, rose, and musk, paired with hints of orange blossom, peach, and sandalwood. In this interview, Suzy Le Helley shares insights into her journey in perfumery, her creative process, and the exciting collaboration with Frédéric Malle.

L’Officiel Arabia: How did you start your career in perfumery? Was there an exact moment when you realized you were meant to be in this field?

Suzy Le Helley: I was a very good student in school, living in the southeast of France. At the time, I didn’t know much about my career path, but I knew what I didn’t want to do. I was passionate about both science and art. Through my chemistry teacher, I learned about various careers, including perfumery, and for me, it was a revelation. I decided to pursue this path, studying at ISIPCA for two years. I then secured an internship at Symrise in Holzminden, where I stayed for four years. Afterward, I moved to Paris to work as a technical perfumer, reworking formulations, and later transitioned to creation, collaborating with notable perfumers like Annick Menardo and Maurice Roucel.

Can you tell me more about your collaboration with Mr. Malle? How did it start? Did he contact you directly? What was your first reaction?

Mr. Malle typically works with experienced perfumers but remains curious about meeting new talents from the younger generation. He heard about me from other perfumers and decided to meet. About a year and a half ago, we had a session where I presented ten accords, showcasing my personality through perfumes. He appreciated the floral and modern touches in my work, which he hadn't encountered before. We connected well, and a few months later, after meeting at an event, he expressed interest in working together on a new project. The process was rough at the beginning, but we perfected it together over time.

"About a year and a half ago, we had a session where I presented ten accords, showcasing my personality through perfumes."

What was your initial thought when you agreed to create the fragrance?

I was excited, happy, and surprised.

What was your creative and olfactory process in creating this fragrance?

I began with a clean accord of aldehydes and then built the fragrance to make it more powdery and elegant. For the base notes, I focused on musky and sandalwood elements, adding a twist to make it modern and unique. I worked a lot on the performance to ensure it stood out in the market.

What aspect of this fragrance do you want consumers to understand?

I appreciate that Acne Studios has a strong, recognisable DNA, and I wanted to create something that would be just as recognisable.

Are you happy with the result?

Yes, very much.

Will there be other collaborations between you and Mr. Malle?

I hope so.

What are the three essential items, both clothes and accessories, that you believe every man and woman should have in their wardrobe?

 A nice coat, something to protect you like an umbrella, and an item that reflects your personality, such as a bag or backpack.

What are your four favorite perfumes of all time?

 Féminité du Bois by Shiseido; Déclaration by Cartier; Bois d'Argent by Dior; Musc Ravageur by F. Malle.