Fashion Weeks

Brunello Cucinelli FW24 Womenswear

The code for the season, Ante Litteram, encapsulates the distinctive elements of the line.
Photos: Courtesy of Brunello Cucinelli

Inspired by the pleasure of emotion, the Fall Winter Women's Collection rediscovers the charm of a conscious simplicity and a newfound naturalness, formulated through a meticulous exploration of the authentic essence of each element, transcending seasonal trends. Concentration and refinement are at the heart of each creation and combination, aimed at expressing a sense of ordered and casual completeness.

The codes of the formal and sartorial world, guardians of a timeless luxury and elegance, take on a familiar feel, revealing themselves in a harmonious and welcoming genuineness. The new synthesis, at once discreet and perceptible, is at the service of a spontaneous recognition of the ante litteram identity of each element, the quality of the materials and the high level of craftsmanship.

Memory and tradition are inseparable from the search for innovation and uniqueness to create an updated feminine taste. The design, based on texture, proportions and essential colours, selects a few distinctive elements to define an authentic yet natural elegance.

A masculine taste is the logical recollection of tailored fabrics, balanced by a relaxed, soft and enveloping attitude, diffused by brushed surfaces, cables, corduroy and aspects that combine the sophisticated urban world with the natural appearance of open landscapes.

Double, bonded and padded are key manufacturing techniques that alter the behaviour of classic fabrics and natural-looking nappa leathers and suedes, giving them a fresh appeal. The combination of traditional materials and innovative effects lends a contemporary spirit to long formal coats, wide shoulders, dense or grainy woollens, skirts with a composed fluidity, retro textures and no-fade denim.

Photos: Courtesy of Brunello Cucinelli

Colours

In-depth research into the quality of the shades deepens the endearing sense of enduring colours, with a special privilege given to the timeless shades of grey. Black breaks away from its classic rigidity to take on a cosy, three-dimensional nature, becoming a coherent expression of the brand's character in the interpretation of the most special garments and in the creation of graphic effects in combination with beige.

There is no shortage of autumnal and woody browns, alternating with very light and enveloping panamas and warm whites, or warmer cream and butter tones. Old Sheffield Plate-style lamés, satins, tassels and couture fabrics add lustre to special occasions.

Knitwear

The collection’s knitwear is the result of experimentation, reworking the weights and characters of traditional garments with new inlays and refined overlapping effects. The masculine character of Argyle motifs is reinterpreted in terms of proportions and finishes to give life to new, three-dimensional and feminine dimensions.

The dense and compact nature of double knits is balanced by a tendency towards transparency, evoking a delicate interplay of veiling and layering that imbues the patterns with an understated allure.

OPERA knits and Couture Knitwear reimagine floral motifs, Irish cables and classic ribs in a sophisticated blend of techniques that alternate masterful handwork with precious embroidery.

Trousers and Skirts

Skirts are important in new trends, competing with trousers in combinations with oversized coats, bomber jackets and masculine sweaters and shirts. A new emphasis on femininity is dynamically renewed in style and form, exploring different volumes and lengths with a focus on the sophisticated yet effortless aesthetic of circle and A-line skirts.

Aligning a sartorial character with a chic and effortless attitude, trousers favor soft, relaxed volumes, enhanced by tactile surfaces in dense wools or fluid surfaces in satins, ultra-lightweight velvets and soft flannels. Iconic denim, in its no-fade version, takes on a refined aesthetic for the day, while in a tuxedo version becomes glamorous for the evening.

Matching Sets & Special Occasions

Matching sets take on a fresh appeal thanks to new materials: knits, denim and soft leathers reformulate the search for order with a dynamic touch. Coats, overshirts, tops, and shirts contribute to broadening the offering of matching sets from a contemporary standpoint, accompanied by combinations featuring blazers with a strong identity that further enhance the look, even when paired with different materials.

As well as shimmering effects, glossy satins, sequined embroidery and feathers that evoke a sense of lightness, eveningwear has a sense of understated, sophisticated glamour based on chic silhouettes, charming mohair tuxedos and the iconic nuances of no-fade denim.

Accessories

Sartorial values are interpreted through bonded woollen fabrics, shaped into contemporary designs and framed by graphic borders. The belt motif, reminiscent of the college world, runs through timeless everyday bags and harmonises with new derby shoes and penny loafers. The tactility of shearling and knitwear adds a feminine touch to the surfaces and details of ballerinas and accessories, creating a cosy winter vibe. For eveningwear and the finest accessories, exclusive jewelled embellishments add sparkle to the fabrics, created through precious handloom techniques.