Damiani’s Ode to Italy

With Ode all’Italia, Damiani continues its centennial celebration by turning its gaze inward; toward the landscapes, cities and cultural heritage that have shaped the Maison since its founding in Valenza more than a century ago. As the only international high jewellery house that remains entirely Italian and family-owned, Damiani approaches this collection not as a thematic exercise, but as a deeply personal tribute to its origins.

Structured around three evocative chapters (sea, landscape and cities of art), the collection transforms Italy’s visual and emotional richness into sculptural jewels defined by exceptional gemstones, architectural silhouettes and meticulous craftsmanship. Each piece is conceived as an artistic interpretation of a place, capturing light, colour and atmosphere through design.

At the heart of this creative vision is Silvia Grassi Damiani, Vice President of the Damiani Group and President of Venini, who continues to guide the Maison’s evolution while remaining firmly rooted in its heritage. In conversation with L’Officiel Arabia, she reflects on the emotional starting point of Ode all’Italia, the close dialogue between designers and master goldsmiths in Valenza, and the balance between creative intuition and strategic continuity. She also speaks about Damiani’s contemporary vision of femininity, embodied by global brand ambassador Jessica Chastain, and the enduring values that define the Maison today.

Tanja Beljanski: How did you approach translating Italy’s emotional and visual richness into the Ode all’Italia High Jewellery Collection, and where did the creative journey begin?

Silvia Grassi Damiani: As we proudly say, Damiani is the only international high jewellery Maison that is still 100% Italian and owned by its founding family. Italy is at the heart of everything we do. For our 100th anniversary in 2024, we celebrated our Italianità through a special collection and exhibition, Damiani 100x100 Italiani, exploring values deeply connected to our country; creativity, craftsmanship, history, family and passion.

With Ode all’Italia, we wanted to go further, paying tribute to Italy in a more emotional and visual way. The collection captures the feelings evoked by our landscapes and art cities, translating colours, shapes and atmospheres into jewels that express the essence of Italy.

The journey began with the art found in our cities and naturally expanded into nature; our seas and coasts, hills, mountains and lakes. It was a long creative process that started many months before the collection came to life. My brother Giorgio, who leads our design and gemstone departments, began by selecting extraordinary stones capable of evoking these places, and from there the creative process unfolded.

The collection is structured around three themes—sea, landscape and cities of art. How did these narratives influence the design language and gemstone selection?

In Ode all’Italia, gemstones and design are inseparable. Often, the gemstone is the starting point, as its colour, light and character naturally guide the silhouette of the jewel. Together, they become the language through which we express each landscape or place.

The Aethernitas collier, inspired by Rome, features a geometric design that reflects the perfection of the Pantheon’s dome and the grandeur of St. Peter’s Basilica. In contrast, Marea Rosa draws its emotion from colour: Paraíba tourmalines evoke the clear waters of Sardinia, while pink morganites recall the soft hues of the Costa Smeralda’s beaches. Diamonds mirror the reflections of sunlight on the sea.

Every element is crafted by our master artisans to translate emotion into form, transforming Italy’s beauty into truly exceptional creations.

How does collaboration with the master goldsmiths of Valenza shape the final pieces?

My brother Giorgio and the design team work in very close collaboration with our master goldsmiths from the earliest stages. While everything begins with a sketch, it is the artisans who ultimately bring the jewel to life. Their expertise is essential, not only for feasibility, but often for innovation; finding solutions that transform what initially seems impossible into reality.

Valenza is one of the world’s most important high jewellery districts, and Damiani’s roots there are profound. Our grandfather, the founder of the Maison, was himself a goldsmith. This heritage makes craftsmanship central to our identity.

The continuous exchange between designers and artisans; between tradition and innovation; is what gives our creations their unique soul. To ensure this savoir-faire continues, we have also established the Damiani Academy to train future generations of artisans.

How does Damiani balance creative intuition with the strategic evolution of the Maison?

Creativity and craftsmanship are the foundation of Damiani. Our creative intuition is never disconnected from savoir-faire; it is guided by a desire to enhance beauty while ensuring comfort, wearability and durability. We create jewels meant to be worn and lived in, where aesthetics and function exist in harmony.

At the same time, we are guided by a clear strategic vision. We listen closely to the market and innovate while remaining faithful to our identity. This is why collections such as Mimosa, Margherita and Belle Époque remain timeless and successful worldwide.

Our aesthetic evolves subtly over time, but our goal remains unchanged: to create jewels that feel contemporary today and can be passed down to future generations.