Clothing can amplify the character of the wearer or alternatively communicate the role, or even gender they wish to portray. This sense of life lived as a dramatic performance is reflected in the collection title ‘All The World’s A Stage’ and the theatrical theme runs throughout; from the upcycled theatre drapes that have been repurposed as gold lamé fabric, to the harlequin motif, the show’s setting in the round, and the pure enjoyment of dressing up that these looks celebrate.
Pageant Queens meet Henry Moore in an unlikely splicing of references. The glamour and excess of Pageant costumes are evident in the gold lamé and sequins that are offset with rich black velvet, and accented with crystal embellishments. In contrast to these high shine fabrications are silhouettes and cut-outs that echo the organic shapes and curving lines of Henry Moore’s works, grounding the pieces in a fluid landscape.
Form fitting second skin dresses are mixed with sculptural elements that give the body entirely new shapes; mini skirts are padded and bulbous, whilst a little black dress is theatrically extended with a sculptural collar that curves dramatically behind the head. The Pageant Queen’s winning sash is draped and wrapped across dresses, and reimagined as a giant structured shawl. Corsetry is used to play with silhouettes, at some times exaggerating the waist, at others featuring unexpected shapes that appear to be placed off kilter, changing the balance of the natural form.
This demi-couture collection celebrates the process of getting dressed; a sculptural bustier is paired with hip drapes and harlequin tights, apparently awaiting the crinoline skirt that should sit on top, fishtail skirting is upturned, reminiscent of someone mid-change with their skirt fanning out upwards, and a bustier almost reveals the chest, as if put on too quickly and moved the wrong way, capturing a glimpse of deshabille. These moments frozen in time expose a beauty in finding new shapes and parts of the body to reveal, seeing sensuality through different angles.
“All the world’s a stage,” - As You Like It, William Shakespeare
Introduction: Florence Pugh | Cellos: Ian Burdge, James Douglas |
Beauty: Make-Up Look designed by Sofia Tilbury using Charlotte Tilbury Beauty & Skincare |
Hair: Ali Pirzadeh @ CLM | Nails: Simone Cummings @ CLM | Styling: Harry Lambert @ Bryant |
Casting: Nachum Shonn @ Bryant | Movement Direction: Simon Donnellon |
Production: FAMILY | Footwear: LOVE pumps and custom GOVI Boots by Jimmy Choo |
Millinery: Harris Reed in collaboration with Vivienne Lake |
Jewellery: Harris Reed X Missoma