Fashion Weeks

Jean Rabanne Gaultier Haute Couture by Julien Dossena

A patchy conversation for a bias-cut quiz
Photos: Courtesy of Jean Paul Gaultier

What do you prefer: the crossing of Paris, or the moveable feast that the city can be?

Jean Paul: Both. Paris is a moveable feast and when it’s not, you crisscross around the city.

Julien: I’m coming with you!

If you were a Parisian monument.

Jean Paul: Ich bin ein monument ! That’s weird, I’m being possessed by Karl!

Julien: Jean-Pierre Raynaud’s Golden Pot, which stood in front of the Centre Pompidou.

The Flea market in Saint-Ouen or a flea in her ear?

Jean Paul: We’re the Flea Generation!

Julien: A true treasure trove!

The young girls of Rochefort or the young ladies of Avignon?

Jean Paul: Sailors are much funnier than all the fairground people put together…

Julien: The Umbrellas of Cherbourg.

Godard or Sautet?

Julien: The Things of Life.

Jean Paul: Sautet. And Romy… And Italian movies also!

Sylvie Vartan or Françoise Hardy?

Jean Paul: In my day, Sheila was all the rage, but otherwise I’d pick Françoise Hardy. I saw her as a Saint Laurent kind of girl and, in fact, her favorite was Courrèges. Julien: Undoubtedly Françoise Hardy, so Paco Rabanne!

Your favorite heroine

Jean Paul: Madonna. And Bardot of course! Freedom — a very deliberate kind of freedom. She has worn Paco’s creations as well, Julien.

Julien: Yes! Her irresistible sensuality. I was thinking of Monica Vitti, her attitude, some iconic images, a certain femininity.

Your favorite pastime?

Julien: Walking the streets.

Jean Paul: People-watching, on the street, at the movies, on TV

Paris' Winter Circus or the Summer Olympics?

Julien: The Cirque d’hiver. I lived across the street from it for a few years. I could hear the elephants trumpeting at night.

Jean Paul: I presented many of my collections at the Winter Circus. This is where was shot the movie Trapeze, starring Burt Lancaster and Gina Lollobrigida: it left a great impression on me. The place is actually fabulous! The stables had to be turned into dressing rooms and the circular catwalk was not ideal, but I have very fond memories of these events.

Piercing ot Tattoo?

Jean Paul: Both. I included fake piercings in my Tattoo collection, which I presented to the public when Jane Campion’s wonderful movie The Piano was in theaters! Julien: She is another heroine of mine. Each frame is a painting, every piano lesson a gentle caress.

Sex Pistols or Sex-Appeal?

Jean Paul: Rather than pleading for sex, I prefer the Sex Pistols. Punk was a great inspiration for my fashion aesthetic. In Paris, we had Edwige, the queen of punks: she took part in my first runway shows. And, of course, Malcolm and Vivienne! They are sorely missed.

Julien: I’m all for aesthetical revolution, for living on the edge. Parisian punks had a dandier look. I remember a picture of Pascal Greggory at the Palace club, wearing a suit with a safety pin in his ear and very, very messy hair.

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Guest Designer: Julien Dossena

Creative Direction: Florence Tétier

Styling: Marie-Amélie Sauvé

Casting Direction: Piergiorgio Del Moro

Hair Styling: Duffy

Makeup Artist: Pat Mc Grath

Nails: Elsa Deslandes avec Kure Bazaar

Sound Design: Surkin

Copywriting: Sylvia Jori

Illustration: Thierry Perez

Film: Titre Provisoire

Show Design: Back of the House

Special thanks to Julien Dossena and his Team, Monsieur Jean Paul Gaultier, the Atelier and the JPG Team, and the spirit of Monsieur Paco Rabanne.