In an iron tin box, a pupa wriggles restlessly, sensing every inch of its body undergoing intense changes. Its cells screams while its shell contracts. Each breath of the moth feels like a blunt knife, stabbing into its chest. It gradually realizes, that the only way out is to break free from this confinement, exit the shadow, and enter the light.
Louis Shengtao Chen: "Look at this pupa, it's shaking. It's about to transform into another form, in absolute silence to our ears. I am not even sure if the moth can really emerge from it. But in this moment, do you feel all the life that’s happening from within?
Q: "When moths are flying in front of the mirror, towards the light, what do you think they're actually doing?"
Louis Shengtao Chen: "Perhaps... they are observing? Appreciating themselves?"
The moth spun in front of the mirror, then suddenly hears a strange voice approaching, and flies away in a sudden panic.
Louis Shengtao Chen: "You see, the climax of it all is not in the ending, not the pupa transforming into a moth, but in the process itself. Unraveling the cocoon, in the moments of longing, struggling, enjoying, and emerging, that unknown, heart-wrenching, splendid and fulfilling moment. I often feel that the result is not the most beautiful part of the story. Beauty, exists in every little moment of discovering beauty, an ecstatic sensation that resonates from the core to the brain. This sometimes painful process, so exquisite, addictive, and it stirs me, attracts me."
A brightly lit room. Not even a shadow can be hidden. A single murmur can be heard so clearly across. In a hush and holding of a breath, Louis Shengtao Chen, commences, in a presentation of his 2024 Spring/Summer collection, under a total moment of sanity.
The collection explores an emotive process of creation, it honors each tremble of excitement when beauty is uncovered, when a subtle rush of electricity is felt, when a body tickles, and the fingers crunch. Louis plays with the intricate inner feelings of shame, the shame of expressing, yet wanting to express. All taking place in a momentary of fragility, of lust, and a yearning for the unknown.
Orgasmic. A feeling all so familiar to most, yet so few are willing to reveal. In his journey of evolution, Louis Shengtao Chen has always dived himself into a black hole of romance. The romance is now bloating out to the water's surface.
Is that a subtle humming we hear? “The End of the World”？ Maybe that’s it. A quiet mumble, full of depth and sorrows, scared to be sung out loud, fearful of vulnerability.
Like a moth, breaking out from its cocoon. Louis Shengtao Chen follows the main thread of the collection and cuts away the complexity in his first attempt. He turns cloth into layers of skin, peeling, peeling, until all the raw form and edges are shown in bare skin. Red sequin and lace covered eyes; oversized peacoats tightly hovering over pearl embroidered mesh dresses; exaggerated fabric trimmed headscarves disguising the wearer’s identity in a form of snake; it’s glamour in anonymity, a hide-and-seek of desire, a peekaboo of insecurity.
Girls walk down the runway with a subtle sense of unease. Head crowned, floral pinned, colors bright and shining, yet arms crossed to blatantly cover their inner unsettling emotions. Blood velvety red linings underneath a traditional English checkered overcoat over burgundy stockings. Spikes and cone-shaped 3D shoulders protect the torn-up floral cut-out evening dress, as if no one can, or should, get anywhere nearer. An AI created doll face printed on a puffed skirt, weaving alongside lines of sophistication, in a joking manner that mocks its own presence.
Security, insecurity, protection, imperfection, when all is honestly presented in front of truth, should one judge, or should one admire?
Art Direction & Stylist: Zipeng
PR: BOH Project
Hair: Xuyouhua Team - Lishaoyu, Tangming, Fangbao, Chengcheng, Fantongjun, Xiaofeng
Make up: Beata Xu@S Studio-Hanyan, Heqing, Ann, Rachel, Mengyao, Maomao, Yuejun, Xiaoyu, Liwuli, Pikali, Baoshuang
Beauty Partner: Charlotte Tilbury
CT Make up: Rally Wang, Eric Li, Ryan Zhao, Lily Kang, Niko Cai
Visual Consultant：Zenus Art Studio
Show Music: Ceezy
Runway Photos: Edison,Allen,David lee
Show Video: Haishen team
Documentary: Simon Mu
Fragrance Sponsorship: Futchi
Material Sponsorship: Ultrasuede®
Venue Support: Ontime Center
Technical Support: Oliver Jiang
Styling Team: Monica liu, DollKing
Louis Team: Dongyuan, Donnell, Jia Cheng, Jessie, Li Zhi, May, Jingjing, Song, Wubu, Yiyi, Yiga, Zhu Yue