#MFW: DIESEL Fall/Winter 2024

With Diesel, everything is on display.

Photos: Courtesy of DIESEL

“This season we have opened Diesel up to the world, giving uncensored access to behind-the-scenes in the days before the show. The set for our show is a live video call with Diesel fans from around the world. Diesel is a fashion democracy, so it is natural for us to reveal what is usually kept hidden,” says Glenn Martens, creative director of Diesel.

For more than 72 hours before its Fall-Winter 24 show in Milan, Diesel gave open access to behind-the-scenes areas usually hidden from view. Streaming from five different fixed cameras, anyone with internet access could watch Diesel creative director Glenn Martens and his team prepare for the show – in the atelier finalizing the collection; with Martens as he fits the models; the casting; in the show space as the runway set is being constructed. For the show itself, the set is a live video call with 1000 members of the public around the world, who would never usually get front row access.

In a first for the fashion industry, the Diesel livestream revealed the work that is usually kept top secret. It’s the energy of the collection too: our hidden sides breaking into the open, the inside coming out. “Multiple layers – it’s what we all are,” says Martens.

A jersey devoré shirt is burnt out as if by sweat, under the arms and into the chest. Same for sweat-effect burnt out tanks and plaid long-sleeve minidresses, like the heat of the body has taken over. Denim double-breasted coats have been coated, but, when unbuttoned, the original denim is revealed. Muslin is bonded to jersey then burnt out, exposing the contrast between the top layer and underneath: a puff-sleeve blue floral dress is burnt out to reveal vivid red beneath, or a top of black florals burnt out to show the hidden layer of leopard print. Faux fur coats are also bonded then burnt out to show the florals below.

Knit wrap leopard print dresses are as if worn away to a trompe l’oeil of denim. Thick knits are matted for extreme coats, jackets, skirts and boleros, as well as hats, balaclavas and the lining of hoods. Double-dyed faux fur is covered with a layer of mesh that almost makes it look like a graphic. Padded coats are pierced by tufted faux fur in an exploded DIESEL logo. The tufting repeats as a trim through the rest of the collection, on hems, seams, across shoulders and out from necklines.

Jersey tops are printed like a trompe l’oeil knit that’s been blown out by a super-strong spotlight. Jersey print miniskirts are multi-layered, like there are so many options, you wear them all at once. Jersey tops, miniskirts and bandeau minidresses are printed with a screenshot of a Diesel livestream. Ultra-padded diamond-quilted coats are burnt out to reveal the coloured wadding inside. Monster fur coats are shaved, controlling their chaos.

Of course, because this is Diesel, denim runs throughout the collection, like black coats and pants that are completely coated then cracked, or a denim coat that’s coated to look just like leather. Denim jeans are multi-layered, whether coated, devoré or jacquard: “I like it when you don’t get things at first, that make you look again,” says Martens.

Play bags are printed with feline close-ups, from black cats to roaring tigers; 1DR bags come in leopard print. The new Scrunched D bag gathers the leather in a Diesel D, with two drawstring side pockets; meanwhile the new soft-structured Trash D bag has its handles held with a claw metal hair clip. The Charm-D is tufted with faux fur trim, just like in the collection.

Men’s boots have a square-front metal toe, while sock boots are knitted from thick yarn. Women’s stilettos have a metal D moulded on the heel, as do stiletto pumps. Clog boots also have a metal heel, while heel clogs come in faux shearling. Meanwhile, chokers and cuffs are designed by a Berlin tattoo artist.

The new Diesel Eyewear sunglasses have lenses embedded organically in the frames, which have distressed finishes. The new D-sruptor watch is the third chapter in the Metamorph series, with iridescent crystals and unique link bracelets.