#MFW: Luisa Beccaria Fall Winter 2024-2025

The collection main theme is the brand iconic print, presented in a monochromatic and micro version on dresses, blouses, linings, tights, accessories, in order to create a floral wood, playing between country and the city.

For the day, the high-waist skirt suit is made of stretch felted wool or with fringes of silky plumes, or even with quilted satin in mini length, always paired with impalpable frilled blouses. Corduroy is plain for straight leg trousers, or rosebud printed on down jackets.

Micro fringed flounces gather in ton-sur-ton origami, creating 3d effects on dresses. The manly herringbone coat is transformed into a velvet-hemmed night-gown, or it takes sweet pink hues. For the real winter: printed technic-fabric bombers and straight capes for alpine snow as well as for city cold.

And then the evening comes: with a long draped-bodice black velvet dress and a seductive deep side vent black velvet gown, adorned with carvings and embroideries of crystals and rhinestones. The abaya inspiration comes from a recent Arab journey, seen on dévoré velvet roses on dotted tulle, the same tulle otherwise gold-embroidered for fairytale sandy dresses. The brocade — black with neon effects, creating a urban flowers’ forest — is the main fabric for a luscious rendingote-shaped chemisier with hide buttons; the trouser suit comes alive through multi-chrome sequins fringes, creating the illusion of a sunset on skyscraper’s glass wall.

Among the fabrics: brocade, thousands velvets — smooth, corduroy, printed, dévoreé — and wools — stretch felted, tweed, cashmere — beyond georgette, chiffons and embroidered tulle. Shapes are soft and enhancing, with accent on the waist, alternating more sketched silhouettes made of “architectures” of satin and flounces. Lengths are mini to maxi.

The colour palette plays with three main themes: the pinks, from dusty tones to lilacs and taupes, till the depth of ruby, bordeaux and aubergine with magenta touches; the greens (moss and sage); the blues, deep as navy, up to black.

Accessories count wide-brim printed bucket hats, micro bucked-bags, open-toe suede pumps, and skinny midi boots.

The presentation set is the digital and immersive installation by italo-argentine artist Florencia S.M. Brück, defining the space and embodying the Luisa Beccaria fashion vision with a technological and avant-garde method, which embraces models and guests into an interactive landscape, made of urband reality and natural environment, entangled in the collection motif.

The FW24-25 collection was unveiled at Officine LùBar, which opened for the first time on this occasion. Officine LùBar is the new headquarters, food workshop, and events location of LùBar project, created by the designer’s family and now embodied by two restaurants in via Palestro and piazza del Carmine (both in Milan city centre).

@luisabeccaria