MM6 MAISON MARGIELA SS24

The SS24 collection embraces the hand. It explores gestures that define pieces of clothing, and items that entice certain postures and gestures, but also garments suited for particularly handy expressions of manual labor. The hand, thereafter, touches a whole spectrum of possibilities - as it should be: body language is a potent tool of communication - from the way pockets are placed to interpretations of staples such as the butcher apron and the lab coat. Ribbons, slits, full side openings and ties, so engrained in the house’s vocabulary, suggest personal ways to adapt clothing on the body, which is another way to use the hands.

Playing with length and width, elongation is the gesture and the slant the collections predominantly dons, through very long vests, lengthened tailored jackets and trousers that can be wrapped in a number of ways. Plunging V necklines, tall sleeveless coats falling straight, and sleeve-deprived shirts all entice verticality. Pockets are placed low, on both gilets and trousers with an extended crotch.

Denim, robust canvas and pragmatic polycotton nod at the realm of work, where the hand is focal. T-shirts with six patch pockets suggest a number of manual actions, as do the slip dresses cut like one-shouldered aprons, their singular shape being a result of function, in this case the need to free one shoulder during work.

Meta is a favorite MM6 way to turn straightforwardness into abstraction. Hence the word allongè printed on the allongè t-shirt, or mat, satinè, brillant carved onto mat, satinè and brilliant cuffs and pieces of jewelry. Stamps become jewelry too, and so do keys, as earrings.

Accessories further riff on the idea of making: round toe boots and mary janes shaped after kitchen safety shoes, anatomic toe clogs, and a new iteration of the Salomon mary janes. Elongated paper bags and handbags that double as vests entice other gestures.

The ever-increasing number of summer heatwaves sets the tone for the whole show. As the hands of the models open thick ribbon curtains, to the hand-paced rhythm of drums, melted candles drip from necklaces and earrings alike. As ever for MM6, the idea is that purposefulness triggers having fun with clothing. This season such fun means exploring ways of behaving and carrying the body.

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