Milan Fashion Week

This season, dedicated to the Fall/Winter 2025-2026 women’s collections in Milan, was characterized by an essentialist approach, likely influenced by the deep crisis the fashion system is facing in Italy and beyond. However, there was also a strong presence of stylistic purism in the collections, with the fashion giants returning to their roots and the essence of what made them famous worldwide.

Here are the 6 highlights of L'Officiel Arabia.

1. Gucci:

Gucci’s Fall/Winter 2025/26 collection in Milan was a masterclass in time travel, with the brand paying tribute to its long and storied past while ushering in a new chapter. The show was a rare opportunity to witness a fusion of the brand’s most defining eras, from the sharp tailoring of the ‘60s to the glamour of the ‘90s. The decision to merge the women’s and men’s collections, following the departure of former creative director Sabato De Sarno, marked a pivotal moment for Gucci, signaling a fresh direction under the leadership of the in-house design team.

The set design was a green forest-like environment, invoking an air of cinematic nostalgia, while the runway was shaped in the form of the "Interlocking G" logo, one of Gucci's most iconic symbols. This connection to the past, especially in the 50th anniversary year of the logo, emphasized the brand's roots while inviting viewers to imagine its future.

The collection itself was a celebration of Gucci's legacy through the years. Models donned ‘60s-inspired suits, complete with sharp jackets and cigarette trousers, which merged with the bold ‘90s aesthetic of oversized sunglasses and faux fur coats. This juxtaposition of retro-glamour with modern touches showed how Gucci’s design language has evolved while still maintaining a strong identity.

Despite this celebration of history, the underlying message was clear: Gucci needs to find a new creative direction to stay relevant. In an ever-changing fashion world, Gucci must find a delicate balance between its rich heritage and the demands of contemporary fashion. Its future success will depend on how it navigates this balance, ensuring that it remains a cultural leader for years to come.

2. Fendi:

Fendi’s Fall/Winter 2025/26 collection was an extraordinary celebration of the brand's century-long legacy, marking 100 years of timeless elegance and innovation. Designed by Silvia Venturini Fendi, the co-ed collection moved beyond simple archival references, delving deep into the designer's personal memories and projecting Fendi’s essence into the future. With a combination of refinement and playful experimentation, the collection brought a fresh yet nostalgic perspective to the runway, showcasing a unique blend of historical influences and forward-thinking design.

The runway presentation was a celebration of the brand’s Roman heritage, with a distinct nod to the bourgeois elegance of the '50s and '60s. Structured coats, sharply tailored suits, and sumptuous furs dominated the show, with models walking in defined silhouettes—sharp shoulders, narrow waists, and knee-length skirts. These strong, architectural shapes were juxtaposed with softer, more playful cuts, including whimsical geometric prints and polka dots, which injected a sense of modernity and joy into the otherwise sophisticated collection.

What truly stood out were the iconic design codes of Fendi. The collection paid homage to its legacy with intarsia furs, chevron patterns, and classic skirt suits, elements that have become synonymous with the brand. The show also featured some of Fendi’s most iconic bags, including the Baguette and the Peekaboo, which once again took center stage. Additionally, a new satin version of the Fendi Spy bag was introduced, showcasing the brand’s ongoing innovation while staying true to its luxurious roots.

The runway was graced by a mixture of top models from both past and present, including the legendary Penelope Tree and rising stars like Amelia Gray. In the front row, close friends of the brand, such as Sarah Jessica Parker and Bianca Balti, added to the sense of celebration. Fendi’s centenary show was not just a retrospective, but also a powerful statement about the brand’s ongoing relevance in the fashion world.

3. Prada:

Prada’s Fall/Winter 2025/26 collection, presented during Milan Fashion Week, was an exploration of modern femininity that boldly redefined the traditional notions of glamour and elegance. The collaborative vision of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, this collection embraced a raw and unpolished approach to luxury—what they dubbed “raw glamour.” This concept subverted conventional beauty, positioning imperfection as a new form of refined elegance. Through an intelligent mix of structured and fluid silhouettes, Prada challenged the very definition of femininity, proposing a vision of beauty that celebrates imperfection, diversity, and complexity.

The collection was notable for its deliberate use of oversized silhouettes and deliberately altered proportions, which contrasted sharply with the traditionally expected female form. Rather than showcasing hyper-feminine lines, Prada’s designs featured fluid, almost voluminous shapes that blurred the lines between formality and casual ease. The fabrics were deliberately unfinished, with raw edges and unpolished finishes juxtaposed with refined details like structured accessories and meticulously crafted handbags. This contrast between rough textures and luxurious craftsmanship underscored the collection’s central theme: beauty in imperfection.

Accessories played a crucial role in reinforcing the “raw glamour” aesthetic. Footwear and handbags, often designed with unconventional elements like distressed leather or asymmetrical shapes, challenged traditional notions of luxury. In particular, the shoes showcased unexpected materials, adding an edginess that perfectly complemented the collection’s overall aesthetic.

Prada’s Fall/Winter 2025/26 collection was a powerful statement on modern femininity, pushing boundaries while still remaining true to the brand’s heritage. It offered a fresh perspective on luxury, one that celebrates imperfection and individuality, inviting a deeper reflection on what it means to be a woman in today’s complex world.

4. Max Mara:

Max Mara’s Fall/Winter 2025/26 collection embodied the brand’s mastery in blending timeless sophistication with modern practicality. The collection felt luxurious yet accessible, combining Max Mara’s renowned craftsmanship with an approach that speaks directly to the needs of the contemporary woman. The show, full of monochrome looks and outfits crafted from an exquisite mix of luxurious materials, underscored the brand’s reputation for delivering elegance with an effortless, everyday sensibility.

A key highlight of the collection was the use of sumptuous fabrics like pure cashmere, alpaca wool, double-faced wool, and plush camel, alongside textured tweeds, velvet, nappa leather, and shearling. These materials were expertly layered to create capes, coats, jackets, gilets, and cozy pullovers, all of which emphasized a sense of ease and comfort while still retaining a strong sense of sophistication. The high-waisted silhouettes were defined by leather belts, while knit leggings and tone-on-tone tights softened the otherwise structured look.

Max Mara also introduced a variety of skirts for both day and evening wear, offering voluminous A-line and maxi styles that blended couture charm with sporty influences. The collection maintained a sense of subtle glamour, particularly through the inclusion of sporty accessories such as stylish backpacks, which enhanced the relaxed yet chic vibe of the collection.

Max Mara’s ability to interpret the lifestyle needs of modern women was clearly evident in this collection. It demonstrated the brand’s success in creating fashion that is both luxurious and practical, a balance that many women seek in their daily wardrobe choices. This collection proved once again that Max Mara is a brand that knows how to deliver sophisticated yet comfortable fashion that resonates with the contemporary woman.