Milan’s Men’s Fashion Week

Two major drawbacks marked this week: the extremely limited number of organized events (amounting to barely a page in the official calendar of the National Chamber for Italian Fashion, with major names like Fendi, Versace, Ferragamo, and Gucci absent from the runway) and a noticeable lack of attendees, both at the shows and around the city of Milan. For the first time in my decade-long experience, I witnessed empty seats at major shows—something unprecedented, as venues were once packed with eager crowds yearning to glimpse the latest collection from the mega-designers of the moment.

Whether due to inflation, skyrocketing hotel prices (with an average of around 400 euros per night), or the sparse schedule, this week was a true juxtaposition: between the opulence of the fashion system, ever ready to indulge in self-reference, and the widespread economic hardship sweeping across Europe, which both Milan and previously Florence during Pitti Uomo have highlighted. The desirability of fashion and its actual purchase power have visibly declined.

Strolling through Milan, it was disheartening to see that, whereas in previous years, stores—both luxury and fast fashion—were swarmed with eager shoppers, especially during sales season, this year only two stores consistently had people inside: Goyard and Hermès. The others? Deserted.

Now, let’s dive into the collections.

The show drew inspiration from the world of paparazzi and the "Dolce Vita," with models constantly captured by the flashes of faux photographers/models. The looks were designed for every moment of the day: lightweight and essential jeans and turtlenecks, shearling coats crafted with the same refinement as fur, and extraordinary bags perfect for both business and casual occasions. The suits represented the pinnacle of tailoring, embellished with brooches, but, in a surprising twist, worn by the photographers themselves—an authentic tribute to Italian craftsmanship.

Pierre Louis Mascia's journey unfolded in a timeless dimension, with models walking the runway holding candles, almost symbolizing the sacredness of both the show and the garments themselves. Light yet perfectly aligned with the designer’s aesthetic—Mascia, from Toulouse, developed his artistic vision through his baroque yet contemporary prints—the collection merged pragmatism and poetry. Designed to accompany free spirits through the next winter season, the collection explored fascinating cross-cultural intersections, harmoniously blending oversized prints, intricate details, and absolute modernity.

Brunello Cucinelli dedicated his collection to Anamnesis, the ancient Greek philosophical concept of reminiscence and the recognition of timeless ideas underlying the manifestations of the universe. Similarly, the menswear pieces rediscovered their fundamental essence, serving as a source of creativity for a modern and harmonious integration, enriched by the perfect synergy of its components. The balance of this new style emerged through the careful fusion of unique elements, where every detail contributed to the overall harmony. Vibrant color combinations stood out through thoughtfully crafted pairings, while lightness and refinement defined each look, embodying both the essence of the collection and everyday life. Craftsmanship and relaxed elegance converged in a collection that blended formal tailoring with a touch of informality. Artisanal finishes and sophisticated details elevated casual ensembles, achieving a perfect balance between sophistication and comfort. From elegant suits paired with colorful knitwear to refined jackets styled with denim trousers, each look expressed a fresh synergy between precision and dynamism.

Presented in the splendid setting of Palazzo Serbelloni, Brioni’s collection drew inspiration from the grace and fluidity of dancers and performers. Within the evocative halls of the 18th-century palace, artistic performances enhanced the collection’s painterly and regal essence, featuring crocodile coats, suits embroidered with gold thread, and details that embodied an unparalleled sartorial tradition.