Moncler Genius 2020, One House, Different Voices

1. MONCLER JW ANDERSON | Non-Binary Elegance

 

Jonathan Anderson heralds subversion by way of elegance. His pieces are pure and architectural in design, relentlessly defying staid notions and gender barriers to propose a progressive, cleverly non-binary vision. For Moncler Genius he inflated archive JW Anderson pieces, proposed dots and spikes as decorations, worked on the juxtapositions of matte and shiny and mixed nods to the countryside with notions of city dressing. “The technicality and straightforwardness of Moncler are fascinating to me. A down jacket needs to respond to a function, and I kept that in mind adding my own taste for blunt abstraction”.

2. MONCLER 1952 (Woman) | The refined power of femininity

 

Veronica Leoni interpreted the outerwear and outdoors attitude of Moncler with a lusciously feminine instinct, devising a collection that merges the utilitarian with the languid to create something both empowering and elegant. The world of genderless tailoring employs wools, devoré velvets, nylon twill, off-center diamond quilting and knit resulting in pieces that provide the opportunity for extreme layering of textures, a distinct complexity and three-dimensionality. “Imagining an army of women on a quest for a lost paradise, I looked at the exoticism of the beginning of the XX century and interpreted it in a modern, intensely functional way. It’s all about femininity and elegance, with a twistedly practical angle. I am particularly proud of the collaboration with gender equality group Girl Up on a special item with the slogan: IT’S HER RIGHT”.

3. MONCLER 1952 (Man) | The collaboration with Los Angeles

 

Sergio Zambon follows an urban anthropologist approach at Moncler, merging the reality of design with the study of youth movements - both real and imagined, always spontaneous. As the energy of 2020 clashes with a 70s pop feel, iconic types such as the preppy, the hippy and the punk inspire the attitude, blended in an all-inclusive mix. The collection also redefines creative partnerships by collaborating with a whole city–Los Angeles. It includes contributions from a set of LA-based creative players, touching Moncler with the city’s sun-kissed, laid back spirit. “LA is a cultural reference, a world city. It beats to its own drum, far from the neurotic pace of other metropolitan places. By working with Libertine, Undefeated, Balt Getty and AD.III I took local tropes and clichès and turned them around, the Moncler way”.

4. MONCLER GRENOBLE | Riot of color

 

Sandro Mandrino focuses on design, performance and functionality and twists it all with liberal injections of fashionable boldness. The result is a selection of pieces that while meant to be used for skiing because of their constructive solutions and fabric technology, are also visually arresting and meant for life beyond the skiing slopes. This season the look is layered, colorful, pliable and multipurpose. It features overalls, duvets, bombers, anoraks and jumpers. A riot of colorful graffiti prints swarms allover, enhanced by the mix of matte and shiny fabrics, and fuzzy knit. Otherwise, it’s snow-glow white “I had in mind this image of the white of the snow that gets progressively stained by color as graffiti expand everywhere. 3 Moncler Grenoble is first and foremost about performance”.

5. MONCLER SIMONE ROCHA | The dance of modern romanticism

 

Simone Rocha worked her signature romantic shapes in ways that are both dreamy and active. Thinking about dance, she went as far as using tulle, the most ethereal of fabrics, for outerwear, distributing garden pansies, daisies and roses as embroideries, embossing and print, and letting frills swarm everywhere. The outdoorsy Moncler ethos offers a solid frame. “This collection was originally inspired by Fellini, dance, and the fantasy of dress. It is very much my interpretation of Moncler’s technical expertise, exploring fabrications and silhouettes but bringing it all under the female gaze in my idea of modern femininity”.