New York Fashion Week F/W26: Opera glam, medieval chivalry and a pinch of maximalism
You gotta remember the fundamental rules. And always ask the right question to the ones that have the answer. New York Fashion Week has never been the place known for its daring creativity. It has been the one that embraced trends and refined them making fashion accessible.
This season, designers added some glam to our daily routine. And we have to thank them for it was much needed. This didn’t mean, of course, that American fashion lost its functionality. New York always delivers pieces that everyone can wear. It was a shift to maximalism, but a very slight one. Just a pinch.
Ralph Lauren: The romantic knights
Standing on the pinnacle of fashion, Ralph Lauren is going through one of its most creative periods. Having presented a men’s runway after many years just a month ago, the awarded designer got his inspiration from his Bedford estate, the elaborate murals and the Middle Ages aesthetics. His heroines were mostly poetic and artistic yet always ready for warfare.
Their “armour” consisted of earthy and khaki tones decorated with elaborate tapestry-style flowers. Leopard details didn’t go unnoticed; they were a welcome addition. Taffeta blouses, corsets, tweeds and velvet created an Edwardian ambience. Riding boots, chunky leather ring belts and flat caps were the highlights of a perfectly crafted tale. Ralph Lauren fw26 made it clear: classic is classy.
Michael Kors: A night at the opera
Celebrating forty-five years in fashion, Michael Kors invited us to the opera. His collection balanced grandeur with everyday elegance in an aria of exquisite taste. Dramatic red, mysterious black and calm tones of beige composed a melody of power and harmony. City chic went the luxurious way. Trousers and knits met with voluminous outerwear, fur, capes, opera gloves, trains and feathers. They co-existed seamlessly and looked stunning.
White shoes contrasted with total black looks and we loved the combo. Red and black were undeniably glamorous. Kors proved that he is a constantly evolving designer, focused on becoming a better version of himself. Each collection makes us feel that if there was a title for the American designer who can be both street style and red carpet material, Kors would undeniably be the winner.
Tory Burch: An American girl dancing a retro rhythm
She is known for her refined taste. Her ability to “feel” the trends and interpret them through her personal perspective. Tory Burch is an American girl with a European sense of style. The influences are all there but somehow she has a way of incorporating both. Her father’s corduroys triggered this season’s inspiration and led her to a retro chic collection with patent midi pencil skirts and knits stealing the show. Dresses though were the soft spot as their silhouettes were not that flattering.
Carolina Herrera: Women of the arts know fashion
Wes Gordon dared. And we may as well say, it was a wise decision. His collection had a fair share of animal prints - yes you heard right- along with our beloved florals and distinctive reds. It felt like the’80s but it was fresh and alluring. Cropped jackets with puff shoulders and cocktail dresses looked effortlessly elegant. Sequins and knits added to the picture which was different from what we were used to, but you could tell it was Herrera at heart.
Proenza Schouler: The beginning of the Rachel Scott era
The designer’s debut was an anticipated highlight of NYFW. Rachel Scott, who also presented a collection with her own brand Diotima, had to fill the shoes of Proenza Schouler’s founders in very little time. Judging by her collection, we have to admit that the codes of the house were present but mixed with some all-time favourites of fashion such as Dior’s bar jacket silhouette.
Sleeveless dresses, midi skirt suits, stripes and ruffles rewrote the rules in a textbook that we liked besides its obscure blend of houndstooth patterns, graphic orchid prints, fringes and metal details. It was an “easy on the eye” collection which however, was a tough one for fashion experts who were left with quite a few unresolved questions.
Coach: The young squad
Creative director Stuart Vever has decided to address the brand to Gen Z recreating the thrill of the 70s with a skater’s flair. Financial results so far have proved him right. American culture is so appealing to the young that they immediately identify with its style. Tartan was accompanied by baseball shirts, sneakers and loafers worn with socks and looked so “cool”.
Stripes, stars, laces, pilgrim collars and knits were funky and romantic at the same time. And what about the bags? Coach is so famous for its bags that they could never be a disappointment. East-west, messenger and a bag in the shape of a baseball mitten were a true showstopper. Bravo Coach!
