Overthesea: The 90s Phenomenon

Overthesea is an independent designer brand, founded in Kyiv in 2016 by the designer Kseniya Kramarenko. Nostalgia for the Black Sea coast, passion for architecture, and the spirit of an adventurer married in a distinguishable inflorescence of airy blouses, voluminous ruffles, silk belts, and feminine dresses. Gowns of soft colors made from light fabrics have become iconic for Overthesea.

Searching for the new manifestations of the female image, the brand has named their fall 22 collection Phenomenon. This collection is an experiment to find a fresh vision of a garment as an empowerment tool through the prism of 90s fashion.

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Kseniya Kramarenko is inspired

by the changes in the fashion industry and society

that took place in the 90s.

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The only fabric of the collection is viscose. Its unique feature is an illusion of the sun’s reflection, which reminds us at the luminosity and brilliance of stars. This became the reference for the name and is also a metaphor; the name of the collection echoes its leading message. Exploring the phenomenon of new forms of modern femininity, which has experienced transformations over the past decade, has become the main idea for Overthesea. Fitted silhouettes, bare shoulders, high slits, and corset elements are tools to expand the classic understanding of sexuality in clothing.

“We wanted to redefine the style of a woman, inspired by the fashion trends of the 90s. In a sense, this is a reference to the “fashionable” emancipation, because representatives of alternative fashion increasingly began to turn to harmonious sexuality and share these values in their collections at the beginning of the new century” — says Kramarenko.

Cutouts that reveal skin delicately, flowing fabric that wraps around the body, and vibrant colors — these elements from the new Overthesea release are inspired by the changes in the fashion industry and society that took place in the 90s. The freedom to use garments to speak out, a revolution in the understanding of beauty inspired the brand’s creative team to think about new femininity in the Phenomenon collection.

Model: Katya Skhirtladze

Photographer: Juliia Christ

overtheseadress.com | @overtheseadress

 * This story by Tanja Beljanski first appeared in the November 2022 issue of L'Officiel Arabia.