PFW SS26: Key Word: Debuts, Mission Possible
Paris Fashion Week is considered as the apex of high fashion, bringing together heritage houses and avant-garde designers. This season was the one that debuts were more talked than the new trends with many designers sitting for their A-levels. Some did exceptionally well while others ought to study further.
Designers’ premieres and the heritage factor
The debutant designers went through the archives of their “new homes” trying to decode and comprehend their fundamentals. Their collections were a blend of the houses’ character with the creators’ flair. Sarah Burton did a great job in Givenchy presenting a collection that was classic and classy. The tulip-shaped skirts had a lady-like sense of elegance and the black, white and red pallet was the perfect choice torestore connection with the Givenchy codes.
Jonathan Anderson, on the other hand, had all eyes on him on his long-anticipated debut. Dior ss26 was an honorary mosaic of all designers that preceded him, through his eyes. Having seen the men’s collection a few months ago though, there were many looks that were alike.All looks had references to the past that we mostly liked such as The 1949 Junon dress, the intricate 1959 laces and the John Galliano inspired hats. However, his new version of the classic Bar jacket was definitely an unfortunate moment.
Mugler under new creative director Miguel Castro Freitas unveiled a daring interpretation of the maison’s fetishist glamour with a modern sensibility. Silhouettes remained genuinely Mugler with cinched waists, broad shoulders and hourglass curves.Jackets and dresses in neutrals like concrete grey matching the industrial setting and powder beige dominated. Well played and brilliantly executed.
Balenciaga turned a new leaf under the creative direction of Pierpaolo Piccioli, presenting a debut which opened with homage to the 1957 “Sack Dress” by founding designer Cristóbal Balenciaga. A sculptural minimalist silhouette which through Piccioli’s lens got hold of fluidity and modern ease. Architecture and romance were wovenintostructured coats and balloon skirts standing alongside feather and fringe embellishments, floral appliqués and a vibrant palette of deep violets, neon limed greens,reds and lilacs. The collection also quietly referenced streetwear with oversized sunglasses and platform sandals. However, the focus shifted toward elegance and refined tailoring.
Designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez -formerly of Proenza Schouler- gave Loewe’s SS26 collectiona vibrant tone. The collection merged Spanish heritage with downtown New York edge withleather jackets shaped like bell silhouettes, layered scarf dresses with ruffles and sporty staples. A bright, bold colour palette—primary reds, yellows, greens and blues—fused with a joyful energy and refined aesthetics.
And then, there was Matthieu Blazy. The new creative director of Chanel house orchestrated a miniature universe with a masterful blend of heritage and modernity. The collection was a dialogue between Chanel of the past and Chanel of the future which had a harmonious flow. Tweed got viscose-infused for movement, softened edges, lighter linings, and textures that felt worn-in, not stiff.
Fluid dresses, sheer knitwear and feather-accented gowns floated gracefully in the new Chanel universe.What about the bags? We have to admit some were small works of art. The iconic 2.55 bag emerged with a burgundy lining and a mini-globe was asarticulate as a piece of jewellery. Chanel’s future with Blazy in charge seems to us brighter than the stars in its cosmos.
Settings to remember
Saint Laurent show may not have impressed us with its creations since they were literally five designs in different colours and versions but it was a feast for the eyes. The view of the Eiffel Tower combined with a setting in full bloom with white flowers was spectacular and lavish. Anthony Vaccarello's creations though were not equally superb.
Louis Vuitton took us to the Louvre Museum in the summer apartments of Queen Anne d'Autriche. Nicolas Ghesquière presented a collection with an abundance of Art Deco references which was yet contemporary and relevant. Details mattered: pointy collars, turbans and scarves with pockets worn on the waist were the twist in the plot in a story were the costumes were made of transparencies and the script balanced imperial Europe with Mediterranean influences.
Trends to note
Paris presented a milder version a maximalism focusing on details rather than the clothes themselves. Chloé’s cropped tops were one of our favourite trends along with the tulip-shaped silhouettes and the vivid floral patterns. MiuMiu, Rabanne and Loewe were also in full bloom.
Chanel’s feathers were playful and had a youthful zest without being “too much” or “too extreme”. Feathers were also a thing in The Row, Loewe, Gabriela Hearst, Stella McCartney and Alaïa collections.
Outwear was of the essence. Sculptural jackets made a great impression with Dior and Mugler leading the way. Jackets were big in general as we also saw cropped jackets in Chanel, Dries Van Noten and McQueen. Capes are still on the menu with Dior and Louis Vuitton giving them a fresh approach.Black leather jackets also made a comeback in Saint Laurent, Maison Margiela, Alaïa and Celine.
Lingerie chic which has already been a trend for two seasons goes boldly for a third one.Trust Stella McCartney, Victoria Beckham and Isabel Marant. Denim becomes a staple blending with elegant pieces for a très chic, power look that can be worn day and night. Valentino, Givenchy, Celine and Dior did so and we can’t say no.
This season, Paris Fashion Week was full of information to consider and moments to remember. We are not yet in position to say whether they will redefine fashion and change its course but there is one thing we already know. French fashion is certainly more exciting than most people believe.
related posts
Fashion Weeks
Born in Tangier, Designed for the World
