Fashion

Pucci in Rome: VERY VIVARA Spring/Summer 24 Collection by Camille Miceli

The rippling of the water towards the shoreline, the movements of the sun and moon - within a captivating design of organic and geometric shapes, the Pucci energy flows eternal.
Photos: Courtesy of Pucci


Since its creation in 1965, the iconic Vivara print has symbolised Emilio Pucci's connection to the Mediterranean Sea and a remote, crescent-shaped island near Capri. Today, for her second runway show, Camille Miceli imbues Vivara with new allure.

An escape to Rome leads to the historic Palazzo Altemps near the Piazza Navona, where Vivara along with other heritage prints return in a collection that gives off bold, modern and sensual expression. From an urban chic attitude to looks for days and nights by the beach, classic codes have been remixed and dialled up to emphasise Pucci's creative dynamism.

In addition to Vivara, three prints define the season. Cigni conjures the curvature of a swan's neck with graceful, contoured shapes. Bersaglio is a reverberating pattern that swirls, curls and stretches into space. Chiave puts a Pucci spin on classic stripes. Marmo is enlarged for a bolder effect, especially on the laser-treated denim, which includes lighter chambray. Pesci and Iride continue to appear across the entire wardrobe, from crisp poplin blouses to fluid jersey dresses. Beyond Vivara's aquatic blue, green and purple palette, these motifs are explored in several tonal variations: neutral notes of beige, khaki and black; a vivid spectrum of red, purple, pink and blue; poetic pastels; and luscious floral hues.

With a hippie twist here, an haute spin there, the silhouettes are highly suited to summer - wether foulard-style silk dresses, city ensembles in gabardine with print inlays, or asymmetric tops and skirts. From tattoo and drop-hole tops to oversized blazers, bomber jackets, maxi skirts and jumpsuits, looks are playful yet sohpisticated. The body is always highlighted or else suggested, as swimwear explores a range of cut-out shapes with extra fringe for fun. Embellishments are developed throughout - all over pailette embroidery, leather accents and chain details. Men's wear echoes these themes, from eye-catching blousons and jackets to more nuanced denim and a selection of relaxed tees. For the finale, a series of hooded dresses and caftans in sponge material nod to the archives, their dramatic volumes providing the ultimate canvas for Vivara.

A sandal boasting a curvaceous heel inspired by Marmo's lines and sandals outlined by leaves of leather introduce further workmanship to Pucci's footwear. Meanwhile, a broader offering of bags and accessories starts with elegant, structured shapes in leather with Pucci scarf detailing and chain straps or top handles and expands to chain bags in Iride-patterned nylon, raffia top-flap bags and totes, and of course, the signature Puccinella, now dressed in pastel tulip bikini. Charismatic jewellery - cascades of coloured discs, layers of chain, and studded leather links - completes the Very Vivara collection with an inclusive elan innate to Pucci.

From the ancient remnants of the Eternal City of the psychedelic world within each Pucci motif, culture becomes a complete immersion: constantly revived and living on.

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Photos: Courtesy of Pucci