Ristorante Acanto
The taste of Excellence in one of Milan’s landmark hotels
Have you ever tasted true excellence? I recently experienced it during a tasting event at Ristorante Acanto, located in the renowned Principe di Savoia Hotel, part of the Dorchester Collection in Milan. Under the guidance of Chef Matteo Gabrielli -who boasts an international career in luxury hospitality- the dishes reflect the influence of his mentors, including Adriano Cavagnini, Heston Blumenthal, Antonio Guida, and Vito Mollica. With a meticulous study of ingredients, Gabrielli brings them to life, unafraid to experiment with bold flavors and contrasts. The restaurant itself features opulent interiors in a classic Empire style, thoughtfully updated for the modern diner. Spoiler alert: it’s one of the best meals I’ve had in recent memory. Allow me to share my experience.
I sampled the summer tasting menu, which exemplifies the chef’s skill in seamlessly blending flavors, textures, and visual elements. The meal began with Scampi Tartare, Seed Tuile, and Kumquat. This vibrant introduction featured raw scampi that showcased a delicate sweetness, beautifully offset by the zesty brightness of the kumquat. The accompanying seed tuile added a delightful crunch, enhancing the dish's complexity. The balance of citrus and seafood was crafted with precision, highlighting the chef's talent for harmonizing bold flavors and textures.
Next, I enjoyed the Octopus Terrine with Peas, Mint, and Smoked Piquillo Pepper. The octopus was remarkably tender, offering a delightful mouthfeel that paired perfectly with the freshness of the peas and mint. The piquillo pepper introduced a gentle smokiness, enriching the flavor profile without overwhelming the dish. Visually striking, the terrine featured vibrant greens contrasted with the dark hues of the octopus, showcasing the artistry in its presentation.
The meal progressed to the Brown Butter Risotto with Lemon and Red Prawn Tartare. This dish stood out for its luxurious texture and depth of flavor. The brown butter lent a rich, nutty undertone to the creamy risotto, while the bright acidity of the lemon provided a refreshing lift. Topped with red prawn tartare, it struck a perfect balance between sweetness and richness. The elegant presentation allowed the prawns’ vibrant colors to shine.
For the main fish course, I was served Monkfish with Lard, Couscous, Pioppini Mushrooms, Parsley, and Prosecco Sauce. The monkfish, wrapped in lard, was expertly prepared to maintain tenderness, while the lard added a savory richness. Fluffy couscous served as a light counterpoint, complemented by earthy pioppini mushrooms and fresh parsley. The Prosecco sauce contributed a delicate sweetness, tying the dish together beautifully.
The meat course featured Beef Royal with Spiced Celeriac Cream, Baby Carrots, and Pepper Jus. The beef was incredibly tender, enhanced by a pepper jus that highlighted its richness. The spiced celeriac cream provided a velvety texture, while the baby carrots added a touch of sweetness and vibrant color. This dish was meticulously plated, showcasing the beauty of each element while ensuring the flavors complemented one another.
To conclude, the dessert, Pistachio Pear with 70% Chocolate and Lemon "René Magritte," crafted by Pastry Chef Beniamino Passannante, was a visual and culinary delight. The creamy pistachio paired beautifully with the tart lemon, while the dark chocolate added rich complexity. Inspired by the surrealist artist René Magritte, the dessert's artistic presentation was a fitting end to a meal defined by aesthetic and flavorful excellence.
But today, with the arrival of autumn, Ristorante Acanto at Hotel Principe di Savoia Dorchester Collection in Milan unveils a new seasonal menu crafted by Chef Matteo Gabrielli. This menu highlights the chef's Lombard roots through refined, simple dishes made with high-quality local ingredients. Guests can choose between a tasting menu focused on autumn flavors or a wide à la carte selection. Signature dishes include BIO Egg in carpione with lake bottarga, Smoked Eel with mushroom salad, Parsley Risotto with missoltino and candied lemon, and Milanese Ossobuco. For dessert, a Pear Sphere infused with "Principe Gin" and rosemary offers a delightful finish. What can I say? Bon appétit!
For more information: www.dorchestercollection.com ; @principedisavoia .
.jpg)
