“In a chaotic world, we thought about what ‘effortless’ means now. Clothing that frees up space in your mind. For Spring/Summer 2024, it is defined by modular tailoring, feather-weight materials, and dynamic layers that build structure and volume without bulk.
We evolved our signatures and experimented with new shapes, like micro-mini goddess dresses. Sculptural blazers and tunics with plunging U-necks mirror the aerodynamic curve of accessories. Handbags are molded to rest on the hip, sunglasses wrap around the face, and shoes are constructed entirely of round edges. This collection is designed to be lived in, to move with you, and to instill a sense of lightness and optimism.” — Tory Burch
SILHOUETTES: Clean, pared-back silhouettes are transformed by mindful details. Curved blazers and tunics are slashed through the sleeves, revealing a sliver of skin and allowing for graceful movement. Goddess dresses and skirts are draped and twisted to highlight, rather than contour, the natural form. We recontextualized pieces that have historically restricted women’s bodies, like crinolines. Lightened up and infused with stretch, our wired knits are malleable and can be worn in myriad ways.
FABRICATIONS: Materials were designed to feel nearly weightless, from airy organza, nylon taffeta, crochet, and jersey to bonded neoprene, stretch crepe, and shimmery jersey tailoring. In many cases, fabric was manipulated to create volume in lieu of structure or padding. The cotton-silk shantung of an anorak and U-neck minidress was crushed and heat-pressed into soft, imperfect shapes.
PALETTE: The collection began with a serene palette of emerald, deep ink, black, and cool shades of gray and beige. Nearly every look is monochromatic or tonal, reflecting a desire for calm. Bursts of optic white, carnation, and lemon were intuitive additions, lending a jolt of positive energy.
EMBELLISHMENTS: Barely-there mesh overlays are scattered with tiny filaments inspired by flower stamens. A coat and organza caftan are covered with silver bells, chiming gently with every movement. The sound is instantly soothing, a nod to the use of bells in meditation. The collection’s finale dresses with curvilinear wires are also embroidered with a mix of tiny bells and handburned sequins.
HANDBAGS: Ergonomic shapes support the idea that accessories can streamline your life. Our signature Fleming handbag — a brand icon since 2014 — made its runway debut as a minaudière. In resin, velvet, and T Monogram embossed leather, its concave shape was molded to hug your hip. The Deville bag, a favorite of Fall/Winter 2023, also returns with new surface treatments and hardware.
SHOES: The season’s footwear is almost entirely flat or low-heeled, reflecting how women dress today. Our Pierced “toe ring” collection expands with a rounded wedge, and we evolved the Patos sandal with an architectural slingback. Our new take on the ballet flat is the Violet T-strap, inspired by children’s shoes with a soft square toe. The thoughtful construction of our footwear is highlighted in our Clear pump, which is completely transparent to reveal every inner working of the sole, vamp, and lining.
JEWELRY & EYEWEAR: Domed earrings and cuffs with cut-outs through the center follow the lines of the body, in gold, silver, and bright enamel inspired by aerodynamic race cars. Sporty sunglasses wrap around the face, while cow earrings and necklaces bring a touch of humor — a subversion of the retrograde expression “Why buy the cow when you can get the milk for free?”
THE SHOW: A special thank you to our venue, The Gilder Center for Science, Education, and Innovation in the American Museum of Natural History. The ethereal, otherworldly new wing was designed by architect Jeanne Gang of Studio Gang, known for her environmentally sensitive approach.
Wladimir Schall produced the show’s music, which included “Sadness” by Enigma, “Sinnerman” by Nina Simone, and “Tusk” by Fleetwood Mac.
Photos: Courtesy of Tory Burch
