Fashion Weeks

VAUTRAIT Spring/Summer 2024

The garment is a thing.
Photos: Courtesy of VAUTRAIT


What is a garment? We say: a piece of clothing; that which holds another in it- self. What does the holding in the garment are the base and sides. This holding itself can be held at the handle. As a garment, the garment is something that stands on its own. This standing-on-its-own characterizes the jug as something independent. As the self- standing of something independent, the garment is distinguished from an object. Something independent can become an object when we represent it to ourselves, be it in immediate perception, be it in a thoughtful remembrance that makes it present. The essence of the garment, however, does not reside in the garment as thing object of representation, but rather leave opposition to the garment itself as is own affair.

The tailor completes the garment from out of the earth that has been especially selected and prepared for it. The garment consists of this. By virtue of what it consists of, the garment is also able to stand upon the earth, be it directly. What subsists through such production is what stands on its own. The garment is a holding the body. To be sure, this holder requires a producing. But the production by the tailor by no means constitutes what is proper to the garment insofar as it is a garment. The garment is not a garment because it was produced, rather the thing must be produced because it is this garment. The producing lets the garment freely enter into its own. Yet the essence of the garment’s own is never completed by a producing. Let loose through its completion, the garment gathers itself in what is its own so as to hold. In the process of production, however, the garment must show its outward appearance to the producer beforehand.

What would a garment be if it has a hole or an incorrect pattern? At the very least a failed garment; and therefore always still a garment.

A failed jug, namely one that indeed would hold, but as constantly toppling over it is a vessel with a hole that spills. But only a vessel can spill.

In the ss24 collection I try to show the timelessness of the product and the craft of cutting as something that shape the body, thereby defining its existence and cultural meaning. The body symbolizes time for me like wine, the body also knows how to develop and change and discover additional complexities and qualities. I don't think it's necessary to regulate the body and create an ideal for it. But on the contrary, to integrate a diverse age range as customers of the brand and thus strengthen the position of a product that goes beyond what belongs to the system that establishes the temporary and disposable. But rather leave opposition to the garment itself as is own affair.

In the ss24 presentation the sound was made by avizohar. With the aid of electroacoustic practices, Avizohar explores the thin border between dreamy, hallucinatory moments and concrete, realistic phenomena. His musical influences blend into a melting pot of restrained ambient moments spiced with soft concrete noises and airy distorted shoegazed sounds that can erupt into dense power electronics walls of sound. Every sound or moment in his music is being surgically treated as if he is directing a film; creating cinematic moments narrated by music and breathtaking sound images that invite us to deeply listen to.

The food installation was made by Monika Varsavskaja who explores classic French cookery with a designer’s finesse and uncanny perfection. The instalation was inspired from a church mass created a metaphsical and calm environment during the show.

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Photos: Courtesy of Vautrait