Venetian Contemporary Cuisine

There is a place in Venice that instantly evokes the feeling of home, yet it is also one of the hotels that has significantly shaped the history of this enchanting city: welcome to Londra Palace Venezia. Nestled along the Riva degli Schiavoni, one of Venice's most iconic locations and just a stone's throw from Piazza San Marco, Londra Palace Venezia stands out as the only Relais & Châteaux in the lagoon. The hotel has a rich and fascinating history. To give you a taste—since this article focuses primarily on its culinary offerings—here’s a brief backstory: until 1900, it comprised two separate hotels, the Hotel D’Angleterre (opened in 1857) and the Hotel Beau Rivage (opened in 1875). Over the years, it has welcomed distinguished guests such as Tchaikovsky in 1877 and Jules Verne in 1884. Eventually, these two hotels, always linked by a charming little bridge, united to create what is now known as the Londra Palace Hotel, also called “the hotel with hundreds of windows.”

The story of the hotel’s director, Alain Bullo, is equally captivating. He greeted me wearing a tailored cherry-red jacket, which could have made even Ciro Paone of Kiton envious. He recounted how his father, a true Venetian, worked here as a doorman. One fateful day, while welcoming a guest, he fell in love at first sight. “My grandfather, being skeptical, advised my father to wait until she came of age, and then we’d see.” But love prevailed and they married when she was 18…and the rest is history. Alain and his father eventually collaborated at the hotel, with Alain serving as the director and his father as the concierge. Their partnership was harmonious, with only a few initial adjustments needed. “It was like having an extra guest at home; you learn to communicate and adapt so the atmosphere remains pleasant.” And so it was.

I’ll let you discover the rest, because it’s nice to be surprised—perhaps while enjoying an LPV Caesar salad accompanied by an LPV Life mocktail (made from passion fruit, fresh mint, LPV lime, white cane sugar, and crushed ice) on a warm winter day. By the way, by ordering this mocktail, you also support the V.I.M.M. Biodynamic Research Foundation, with 50% of the proceeds going to this cause. Imagine savouring it on the terrace with a lagoon view or in the beautifully restored interiors by Studio Ruberti & Cutillo, whether in the restaurant or in the Salotto Zecchin (named after Vittorio Zecchin, a Venetian artist who inspired the design of the arches, including the peacocks in our restaurant). All of this while Alain shares with you, like in the best scenes from Italian dolce vita films, the story of Londra Palace, which is also his own story. Because stories are much more beautiful when told by the protagonist himself, don’t you think?

Now we come to the main attraction—the restaurant’s cuisine, which I have tried and thoroughly savoured. First and foremost, credit goes to Chef Daniele Galliazzo, a true Venetian (from the Veneto Region), who has skilfully reinterpreted traditional dishes in a distinctly contemporary manner. As he says, “In my way of cooking, I love to offer some traditional dishes, sometimes local and little-known, sometimes slightly reimagined. In fact, in my menu, there is a desire to spark the guest’s curiosity by offering dishes with a story to tell for those who wish to know it, a taste connected to Venetian flavours, and a touch of creativity to remind us that Venice has always been open to discovery and experimentation.”

The Sea Bass Tartare (a signature of Daniele’s cuisine) made by sea bass tartare seasoned with samphire, basil, olive oil, pepper, and grapefruit citronette.

In this regard, Alain adds, “Our restaurant LPV, in the context of Venice, represents a true bastion of 'Venetian-ness' and local culinary traditions. In a city where mass tourism has often compromised the

authenticity of flavours and experiences, LPV stands out as a place dedicated to keeping local gastronomic culture alive. This restaurant not only offers dishes inspired by historic Venetian recipes but also uses local ingredients, contributing to sustainability and the enhancement of regional production. LPV’s impact on preserving tradition is significant, allowing both locals and tourists to enjoy an authentic, profound culinary experience that goes beyond mere food consumption. The choice to honour traditional recipes and preparation techniques serves as cultural resistance against the standardization and spread of a 'globalized' gastronomic offering. In this sense, LPV becomes almost a guardian of the city’s culinary memory, helping to preserve not only the flavours but also the soul of Venice, keeping its identity alive through food.”

Tiramisù in goto, Classic Venetian dessert prepared with mascarpone cream, ladyfingers soaked in coffee, and a dusting of cocoa

Venetian cuisine showcases the strong connection Venice has cultivated over centuries with both land and sea. Meat, poultry, and fresh vegetables come from the Veneto mainland and nearby islands, while the lagoon and the Adriatic provide a bounty of fish and seafood. This diversity is mirrored in the three main sections of the Rialto market: Pescaria for fish (the historic seafood area of Venice’s Rialto market, symbolizing the deep link between the city’s fishing traditions and culinary heritage, celebrated in a fresh, seasonal menu that blends classic flavours with contemporary touches), Beccaria for meat (sourced from the farms of the Veneto plains and the distant Alps, where the city’s becheri embraced nose-to-tail dining long before it became trendy. Beccaria, or "Butchers’ Lane," is our homage to this often-overlooked aspect of Venetian culinary heritage), Erbaria for fruits and vegetables (now a thriving aperitivo spot, the Erbaria enclave of the Rialto market was once the realm of vegetable and herb sellers. Our vegetarian menu honours Venice’s rich horticultural and foraging traditions and the verdant garden islands of the lagoon), and finally Scaleteria for sweets (in old Venetian dialect, scaleteri referred to the city’s pastry chefs and confectioners. Our dessert menu pays tribute to the enduring love for sweets in this maritime republic, which once played a central role in the European sugar trade).

At Londra Palace Venezia, the three menus draw inspiration from this culinary heritage, inviting guests to explore seasonal Venetian dishes that reinterpret local flavours with a creative touch. I’ve sampled many dishes from the upcoming winter menu, set to launch in the first week of November. While it’s generally advised in the Mediterranean diet not to combine meat and fish, Daniele proves that it can be done exceptionally well. Moreover, the lightness of the individual plates is impressive; whether it’s truffle, caviar, or seafood (especially tuna), the flavours harmonize beautifully. You’ll find yourself eagerly anticipating another delightful dinner at one of Venice’s iconic landmarks. Trust me, it’s worth it.