7 Labels That Shaped the Paris Fashion Mood for Spring/Summer 2026

During Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2026, both official calendar houses and independent voices transformed the city into a living map of emotion, craftsmanship, and experimentation. Across historic salons, contemporary galleries, and raw industrial spaces, designers unveiled collections that explored the tension between control and chaos, tradition and reinvention. From Schiaparelli’s surreal romanticism to Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s sensual rebellion, Jitrois’s cinematic leather odyssey, and Laformela’s structured innovation, Paris became a stage for fashion as art and introspection. Emerging visions such as Re Rhee, Vaurait, and Véronique Leroy completed the panorama — each proposing its own language of beauty, restraint, and renewal.

Schiaparelli – “Dancer in the Dark”

Showing once again at the Centre Pompidou, Schiaparelli turned fashion into a meditation on inspiration itself. Daniel Roseberry reflected on our hunger for meaning in an age of fleeting distraction, crafting clothes that feel both intimate and transcendent. Structured jackets, sculptural gowns, and trompe-l’œil knits merged discipline with fantasy, while accessories echoed Dalí’s surreal softness. With this collection, Schiaparelli reaffirmed its belief that fashion — even at its most wearable — remains art: a private act of joy, a dance in the dark.

Ludovic de Saint Sernin – “The Reverie”

In The Reverie, Ludovic de Saint Sernin dismantled the codes of aristocracy to build a new language of sensual rebellion. Nobility, in his hands, became a community defined not by lineage but by authenticity and freedom. Corsetry, lace, and translucent silks dissolved boundaries between masculine and feminine, proposing a softer yet powerful expression of identity. The palette — deep purple, powdered ivory, porcelain blue — whispered of heritage reimagined. Here, elegance is liberation, and belonging is the truest luxury.

Jitrois – “Road Trip 26”

Jean Claude Jitrois revisited his legacy through a cinematic odyssey of desire and defiance. “Freedom has no destination. Only the road.” Inspired by Thelma & Louise and La Dolce Vita, the collection unfolded in sculpted mini dresses, sharp biker jackets, and transparent fabrics that courted the forbidden. His signature stretch leather — a second skin of freedom — once again celebrated the body as the ultimate expression of power, pleasure, and movement.

“Paris became a stage for fashion as art and introspection — a space where emotion, craftsmanship, and rebellion coexist in perfect tension.”

Laformela – “Mainline 2026”

Making its Paris debut, Laformela asserted its international presence with a study in precision and experimentation. The collection balanced strict tailoring with conceptual play, using vegan leather, burn-out denim, and metallic embellishments to reimagine modern femininity. Highlights included sheer knitwear and eveningwear composed of over 4,000 handcrafted elements — a testament to the label’s technical rigor and global ambition.

Re Rhee – “Practical Poet”

As part of Concept Korea, Re Rhee presented an introspective exploration of daily beauty. Through minimalist structures and thoughtful detailing, the designers articulated a “poetics of dressing,” transforming routine into ritual. Their garments whispered of restraint and meaning — proof that subtlety can be the most profound form of expression.

“Even at its most wearable, fashion remains art — a private act of joy, a dance in the dark.”