Grounded in Instinct

For Autumn Winter 2026, Ludovic de Saint Sernin turns inward, presenting a collection defined by austerity and control. The season unfolds through black, white, and red, forming a visual language that feels direct and charged. This restriction sets the framework for garments that rely on cut, texture, and proportion rather than ornament.

Fringe becomes a central device, treated as structure as much as surface. It frames the body, interrupts clean lines, and introduces movement with intention. In some looks, it cuts across silhouettes with graphic impact. In others, it softens rigid forms, creating a dialogue between motion and stillness. This tension continues across the collection, where velvet, leather, lace, and mesh are layered to produce silhouettes that move between exposure and control.

The designer frames the season as a return to his starting point, reconnecting with instinct and early creative impulses. After years of growth and visibility, this collection signals a step away from spectacle. The approach is direct, with fewer gestures and sharper decisions. Garments are reduced to their core, allowing construction and fabrication to carry the narrative. In a landscape driven by constant imagery, this stance places emphasis on process rather than performance.

Material exploration remains central to the house. Japanese textiles are paired with pony hair leather in beige and black, alongside suede and saturated red leather. These materials are handled with care, often cut to reveal contrast between surface and structure. Hand assembled metal mesh introduces a harder edge, set against the delicacy of Japanese lace in black and deep red. The result is a series of garments that feel tactile and deliberate, each element contributing to a controlled intensity.

Accessories evolve in parallel, extending the vocabulary established in the ready to wear. The Cleavage Bag, a defining piece of the house, appears in new iterations. Its baguette form is joined by a clutch in black nappa leather and patent finishes in black, red, and white. A bucket version arrives in beige suede and black pony leather, introducing volume while maintaining a sculptural sensibility. Each version retains the signature cut out detail, reinforcing continuity while expanding use.

A new addition, the Harness Bag, introduces another dimension. Suspended from a harness structure, the baguette shaped piece references the codes of bondage, filtered through a refined lens. The design aligns with the collection’s broader exploration of tension between constraint and release, exposure and concealment. It integrates into the wardrobe without excess, extending the garments’ underlying themes.