On Craft, Culture, and Conscious Fashion

Globally acclaimed Indian designer Anita Dongre’s designs have long been celebrated for their deep connection to heritage, empowering women, and supporting sustainable practices. As she expands her presence in the Middle East, her creations continue to resonate with the region’s modern women who appreciate elegance, craftsmanship, and ethical values. In this exclusive chat with Delna Mistry Anand, Anita opens up about her creative journey, the emotional connection to her roots in Jaipur, and the power of sustainable fashion.

Delna Mistry Anand: Let’s start by going back to the beginning. When did the dream begin?

Anita Dongre: I was 15, in grade 10, and it was around then that I told my mom I wanted to learn fashion designing. I couldn't find any college at that point of time, so I studied in Narsee Monjee College of Commerce for two years. By grade 11, I discovered SNDT Women’s University Mumbai, and took admission right after the 12^th. Within the very first week, I knew this was my path. I loved college, all the freedom it gave me, and it is here that I truly blossomed, thanks to my amazing teachers who I'm still in touch with even today. I truly found my place there.

Your designs have always paid homage to your roots in Jaipur, Rajasthan. Was this a conscious decision or more of an instinctive connection?

It’s an emotion for me. Though I grew up in Mumbai, and it will always be home, with Jaipur, I have a deep spiritual connection. I remember once, after I was married and had my son, we went to Jaipur for a holiday when he was about five. I stood on the lane where my grandparents lived and showed my family the house. As I stood there, I began to tear up, and they asked, ‘Why are you crying?’ I couldn't explain it, but I just felt so emotional. I said, ‘This is where I spent my childhood summers, and I want you to see it.’ It was such a powerful feeling, and I couldn’t put it into words. That’s the emotion I feel for Jaipur.

I used to dream of one day hosting a grand fashion show in Jaipur. That dream came true with the ‘Rewild’23’ fundraiser at the City Palace. 25 years ago I remember standing there at City Palace and saying to myself, ‘One day, I’ll do a show here.’ And it all fell into place. Life is about building dreams—some come true, some don't—but when they do, it’s truly magical.”

With all these stories and emotions woven into your creations, as a brand, what is most important to you 

Firstly, I design to empower women, to make them feel good about themselves, to feel free and creative. Recently, a young, newly married client visited our store, initially hesitant to shop without her husband. She came along with her friend after a tiring day at work. Then just before leaving, she said she wanted to try a particular outfit, but said that is not planning to buy it. She came out of the trial room in. a beautiful pink outfit and felt transformed! She just didn’t want to change out of it, expressing how good she felt in it and ended up buying it. Moments like these show we spread happiness by helping women feel wonderful in what they wear.

And then, as you know my work is deeply connected to my commitment to empowering women and supporting artisan communities. By employing women artisans in their home villages, we’re able to provide them with sustainable livelihoods, but more importantly, we give them a sense of pride and purpose while helping preserve our heritage. We really focus on ensuring that their traditional skills are not only respected but also passed down through generations.

It must be incredibly fulfilling to see that impact firsthand. What’s it like working with the craftsmen on the ground level?

You know, my connection with craftsmanship started when I was about 12 or 13 years old. Instead of spending my summer vacations at the park like most kids, I'd hang out at Babu Bazaar near my naani's (maternal grandmother’s) house. One day, I saw a man making lacquer bangles and was completely fascinated. I watched him for hours, and eventually, I asked if he could create bangles based on my own designs. He agreed, and I started customizing them. I didn't want to wear just any bangles; I wanted them to reflect my personal style. After the vacations, I'd come home to Mumbai with bags full of these unique bangles and fabrics dyed by street artisans, eager to show my friends. That's how my love for craft began—organically and from the heart.

Do all the artisans who work with you understand the significance of their craft?

Well, we make sure they do. When we launched our New York store, we brought two group leaders from Ahmedabad. They saw firsthand how their work was appreciated on an international platform. Before every fashion show, we tell them, "This is a show garment," and they’d get excited, knowing their craftsmanship is part of something global. Artisans need more than just economic sustainability; they also need recognition. When they realize their work is admired worldwide, they take great pride in it.

How do you see the craft community evolving? Is it being passed down through generations?

Unfortunately, many traditional crafts are dying out as younger generations want to study or move out of the village and do something different. Children now attend school, work on laptops, and aspire to tech jobs rather than learning ancestral crafts. Some crafts are practiced by only one remaining family. However, many NGOs are working to revive these traditions. The key, according to me, is restoring pride in the craft. When artisans feel their work is valued, they're more likely to pass it on to their children. And the children are also more likely to take it on. The government also supports this by awarding master craftsmen, encouraging the continuation of these skills. I feel that preserving craftsmanship is so important to our culture.

Do you get to meet the craftsmen often?

I really try to connect with our local artisans as much as possible. It's important for me that they feel valued and understand the impact of their work. And important for them as well, to have the connection and sense of purpose and belonging. While I can't meet every artisan personally, I've visited many of the clusters we collaborate with. A few years ago, we even invited some media to a village near Ahmedabad to showcase the craftsmanship firsthand. It was a wonderful experience for us all.

I can imagine how impactful that experience must have been! Would you ever consider bringing media from the Middle East to India to experience the craftsmanship firsthand?

Absolutely, it's a brilliant idea. There's still much to be done to raise awareness about the incredible work happening in India. Collaborating on such an initiative would be wonderful.

And speaking of interesting collaborations, how was your experience working with Princess Catherine?

Oh, she's absolutely lovely. I hadn't met her before she wore my dress, but afterward, I was invited to the palace for an event. She told me she chose my dress because it reminded her of Rajasthan and that she loves Jaipur. She was very familiar with my work and mentioned she hopes to return to Jaipur because her last visit was too short. She's incredibly graceful and down-to-earth. The dress of course went viral – before that term was even in fashion. And believe it or not, The "Kate Effect" as it was called went on for years to follow. It's been such a long time, but we still get so many requests from all over the world asking us to make this dress that she wore.

The thing is that every woman will look completely different in it. And that is most important to me, I love how every woman wears my designs in her own way. For instance, a young girl recently wore one of my kaftans, and looked amazing in it with her unique energy. Similarly, another woman appeared in a dress I designed some 14 years ago, accessorizing it beautifully with a necklace, earrings, and a bindi. This individuality excites me—I don’t want people to look the same; I want them to bring their personal essence into what they wear.

You wear many handcrafted pieces yourself. What does that mean to you?

I'm currently wearing Shibori, a handcrafted fabric that's pleated, stitched, and dyed in indigo, creating these unique patterns. As perfect as it looks, or “imperfectly perfect” as I like to call it, it’s not a digital print; it's made by skilled women who've worked on it by hand. Wearing something handcrafted allows you to feel the love and skill in it. That's why I believe in empowering women in craft clusters. We run many village clusters in Maharashtra where women work on textiles between farming and household duties. They use their earnings productively, unlike some men who don't take advantage of these opportunities. That’s why I love working with women. When women earn their own money, it is a beautiful thing.

It's incredible how empowering women through craft can transform lives, not just theirs, but their entire families’. Given your deep connection to both creativity and community, how do you manage to balance the artistic side of fashion with the business aspect?

Okay I’ll be honest, the business side is not my favourite part. But I am blessed with a family who supports me well on the business front, allowing me to focus more on design. But yes having said that, discipline is crucial—it’s about harmonizing what you love with what needs to be done. And I am well aware of what needs to be done. Ensuring my consumers' happiness is paramount; I design clothes that fit their lifestyle and are pieces I myself would be proud to wear. And I like to see our company as bridging the gap between the maker and the wearer, creating a kid of bond that celebrates craftsmanship, empowers communities, and promotes ethical fashion.

Tell us about your commitment about ethical fashion.

This was not necessarily a business decision, but something deeply engrained with me. I became vegetarian at 13 and transitioned to veganism a few years ago after learning about the dairy industry's impact, and this just organically extended to my brand. We launched a vegan line that is plastic-free, biodegradable, and closely resembles leather in look and feel.

For me, sustainability is not a trend, it’s a way of life. It’s about respecting our planet and ensuring that our artisans have a better future. As a race I feel we've distanced ourselves so much from nature, leading to overconsumption. If everyone consumed only what they needed, the world would be much more sustainable. India, especially its villages, has always been inherently sustainable, but mass consumerism has altered that balance.

You're passionate about sustainability and vegan fashion. Has that always been the case?

I became vegetarian at 13 and turned vegan a few years ago when I learned about the cruelty in the dairy industry. I also refuse to use leather in my brand. Sustainability is incredibly important to me because we’ve moved too far away from nature. We overconsume everything—water, food, and material goods. If every person consumed only what they needed, we’d be a much more sustainable world. India has always been inherently sustainable, especially in its villages, but mass consumerism has changed that.

I try to embrace sustainability in every area of my life and work, from our designs to our headquarters. For instance, our office in Navi Mumbai truly represents our commitment. We’ve designed the building to maximize natural light and airflow, reducing our dependence on artificial lighting and air conditioning. The south-facing walls are constructed with double cavity walls to block heat, optimizing energy efficiency. We also use an in-house sewage treatment plant, ensuring that water is recycled and reused within the premises, and we have a composting pit for food waste.

And now we even have a terrace garden where we grow our own vegetables. We have a lot of drivers who drive us to work and are rather free from 9am to 6pm, so we made a deal with them and asked them to learn farming. We told them that 50% of the produce if theirs and 50% we will keep. They were complaining about the rising cost of vegetables and now they are thrilled that they get to take home fresh, organic produce from the office garden. It has created a lot of excitement and positivity in the workplace and its truly a win-win.

For me, it's always about integrating environmental mindfulness with social responsibility, creating a lasting impact through both our designs and the communities we engage with. And I am blessed and grateful to be able to do this.

That is beautiful to hear and I hope we journalists from the Middle East can experience this too someday. For now, I look forward to visiting your new store in Mirdif City Centre. And that brings me to my last question to you today, how do you tailor your designs to cater to the preferences of Middle Eastern women, and what inspired you to expand your brand's presence in the region?

We are incredibly excited to bring our second store to the UAE and expand our presence in Dubai. The positive response we received for our first store in Dubai Mall encouraged us to bring our designs to more communities in this vibrant region. Our collections are crafted for the modern woman who appreciates the fusion of social sustainability and craftsmanship, interpreted with a contemporary sensibility.

And with the Holy Month upon us, we are delighted to showcase our Ramadan Edit which is a collection very close to my heart. It’s all about celebrating the beauty of nature and the essence of femininity. The inspiration behind this edit comes from the serene landscapes we find in nature—flowing rivers, thriving trees, and blooming flowers. These elements have influenced the breezy kaftans, embroidered jackets, and co-ord sets that are central to this collection. Each piece is designed to evoke a sense of grace and comfort, allowing the modern woman to embrace her individuality while honouring her cultural roots. It's about bringing together style and sustainability with timeless craftsmanship, and I truly believe it reflects the spirit of renewal and the continuous evolution that defines today’s woman.

Your designs truly celebrate this harmonious blend of individuality and heart centred purpose. Thank you for sharing your thoughts with us, Anita. We can’t wait to experience your new store and the beautiful Ramadan Edit in Dubai soon!

The pleasure is truly mine. Thank you for your time, and I’m excited to see you all soon in Dubai again next time.