#PFW: Heliot Emil FW23-24 "Connected Forms"

Creative Director Julius Juul, was inspired by the sculptural creations of English artist Henry Moore. Best known for his semi-abstract monumental sculptures which are located around the world as public works of art, Moore uses the human body as reference and creates large scale abstract cast bronze sculptures. Through his art he has had an instrumental impact on introducing a particular form of modernism to the United Kingdom.

Inspired by the sculptural works of Henry Moore, Julius created a collection which questions traditional shapes and patterns. The AW23 collection showcases unique and avant-garde designs that capture the essence of Moore’s art. Many of Moore’s sculptures are displayed outdoors in public space, this gives the artworks a natural patina and a unique texture influenced by the environment of the pieces. In the collection, Juul wanted to provoke the same look and feel of material and texture, this was done by manipulating the fabrics with heat, water and extensive tear.

Other influences from the sculptures are showcased in the form of curved zippers, morphed silhouettes, asymmetrical details, and exaggerated shapes. Organic pattern lines create odd volumes and shapes in the form of sculptural looking jackets, pants and dresses. The asymmetric lines continue even down to the details of pocket flaps and seaming. Each piece in the collection is an interpretation in their own way and captures the essence of Moore’s sculptures.

As part of HELIOT EMIL’s continual exploration into sound this season, Julius collaborated with Stefano Cornali & Mirko Zambelli to create an audio track for the AW23 show. Renowned for their technical prowess and sharp ear for sound design, Cornali & Zambelli were invited to create their interpretation of the AW23 collection.

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