Patrick McDowell AW24
Detailing taken from the world of classical music is interpreted across reimagined orchestral blazers, and capes. Inspired by the animated movements of musicians during performance, scans of second-hand instruments and the original Orpheus’ Ball musical score are translated into dynamic prints. McDowell dives into the Guildhall costume archive reinterpreting the codes of composers’ dressing, highlighting the role of archives and historic preservation as cultural currency. The silhouette comes into focus with discarded musical instruments deconstructed and recontextualised for the catwalk in collaboration with Guildhall student Lauren Jones. Two iconic Patrick McDowell signatures return, the corset-inspired top accentuating the elegant curve of the upper body, and the skirt dramatically transforming the waist through the introduction of volume.
‘Growing up in Liverpool, a city steeped in rich musical history, I was nurtured by its cultural embrace. It became clear to me that music and fashion share a strong connection. Both are expressions of art, exuding drama, and carrying messages that resonate deeply.’
Guildhall School is one of the world’s leading performing arts institutions, delivering world-class training and education in partnership with distinguished artists, through this collaboration. Patrick McDowell utilises the many facets of Guildhall, incorporating staff and students across light and sound design, set, costume, production, and performance; creating a much needed space for tangible new industry experience and opportunities for the next generation. The show features an original score blending classical masterpieces, arranged by Gavin Roberts, Artistic Director of Song in The City, a charity using the power of song to change people’s live across our society.
On this stage, McDowell pioneers a disruptive new model for sustainable luxury, reimagining the role of the catwalk and proposing innovative solutions to conscious sustainably minded growth. Pieces from the catwalk will be available in limited quantities defined by only what is possible truly sustainably and ethically. Demi-couture drops are released to market timed with environmental and human considerations in mind to support local manufacturers and makers, working in harmony across the supply chain. Patrick McDowell pieces are built to last, but bodies change with time, each purchase comes with a complimentary re-fit, allowing customers to return their item at a future date for adjustment as testament to the brand’s ethos of conscious consumption and designs which stand the test of time.
Each piece is designed and made in London with a low carbon footprint. Working solely with recycled and sustainable materials, McDowell’s design philosophy remains true to sustainable practice, supported by the continued long-term partnership with The Lenzing Group, a leading global producer of wood-based specialty fibres. A wide use of both TENCEL™ fibres and TENCEL™ LUXE filaments enhance the musical flavour and theme of the collection through flowing fabrics. TENCEL™ Lyocell and Modal fibres are identifiable via tracing technology.
Fabric printing is GOTS certified on Escetex textiles made using TENCEL™ LUXE’s botanic, biodegradable filament solutions. Chargeurs PCC provides eco interlinings from its Sustainable 360 collection, created using sustainably sourced natural materials, and NATIVA wool paddings incorporating GRS-certified recycled and corn-based binders. Leather pieces have been hand-crafted in Italy by D’Arienzo and leather provided by Lineapelle, with sustainable fabric advisor Dr Anna Sammarco.
Founded in 2018, Patrick McDowell has established themselves as a leading voice on the global fashion stage, reinventing the role of fashion designer through reimagining a new landscape for luxury through a fully sustainable approach. Underpinning all the brand does is a critical belief in the power of community, designing with moral practice, and incorporating traditional technique and forward-looking advocacy to inspire long-term meaningful impact built upon the founding principles of support for people and the planet, uplifting the queer community, and nurturing creative education.
Show Credits
Creative Director: Patrick McDowell
Art Direction and Styling: Jaime Moreno
Musical Director: Gavin Roberts
Lighting & Video directors: Jon M. Armstrong and Robin Pell-Walpole
House Photographer: Lorenzo Berni
Sound Design: Ben Collins
Casting: Jaime Moreno
Shoes: Gina
Gina are delighted to collaborate with Patrick McDowell. The shared commitments to longevity through craftsmanship align and complement each other perfectly, as do their playful aesthetic and designer to create timeless objects of beauty and desire.
Make-up: Jo Sugar using Depixym
Depixym is a small independent brand and fully recyclable make-up line.
Hair: Richard Phillipart using MyOrganics
My.Organics is an organic, sustainable and cruelty free haircare and styling brand. The range of exclusive products is made from certified ingredients that are grown using organic and bio-dynamic farming techniques.
Fragrance: Queer Magic Eau de Parfum courtesy of Urania London
Garment Care: Jeeves of Belgravia
Cleaning and restoration of archival pieces taken care of by Jeeves of Belgravia, London.
Charity Partner: Song in the City
Patrick McDowell supports Song in the City who use the power of song to change people’s lives in all parts of our society. They create and commission new work to give meaningful opportunities to performers and composers alike.
TENCEL™
To learn more about the TENCEL™ brand, please visit www.tencel.com. For more details around the sustainability features, performance, as well as the technology and production processes behind TENCEL™ branded fibres, please visit www.tencel.com/claims.
Patrick McDowell would like to thank Johnnie Walker blue label who have partnered with them on this collection, designing a custom bottle in the brand’s signature yellow. Johnnie Walker Blue Label supports those taking bold steps in the creative industry.
Additional thanks to Guildhall second year student Lauren Jones for her contribution to the collection with artisanal pieces crafted from discarded instruments and pop siren Max Rae for performing at the Patrick McDowell x Johnnie Walker Afterparty.
Special thanks to Sabrina Wisely, Sarah Mower, Ali McWatt, Andy Lavender, Jordan Wake, Melissa Bonnelame
The Patrick McDowell Team: Tazmin Porter, Giju Kim, Louie Hollander, Mhiara May-Mackenzie, Serena Spadone, Olivia Ruston
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