Schiaparelli Fall/Winter 2025–26 Haute Couture: "Back to the Future"

In June 1940, Elsa Schiaparelli departed from Paris, a city she cherished, and embarked on a voyage to New York. This departure signified not only the end of a decade but also the conclusion of a transformative era in fashion. Over the preceding twenty years, designers like Gabrielle Chanel revolutionized women's attire, introducing practical yet stylish garments. In contrast, Schiaparelli's approach was conceptual; she questioned the very essence of fashion, blending it with art and challenging conventional norms.

Reflecting on this pivotal period, Schiaparelli's Fall/Winter 2025–26 collection, aptly titled "Back to the Future," delves into the juxtaposition of elegance and impending change. The collection pays homage to the twilight of sophistication and the dawn of a new world order.

"Schiaparelli’s Fall/Winter 2025-26 collection blurs the boundaries between past and future with a visionary black-and-white palette."

A Monochrome Vision: Blending Past and Future

Creative Director Daniel Roseberry's vision for this collection was to blur the lines between history and futurism. By stripping away color, Roseberry aimed to create pieces that, while rooted in the past, possess a timeless quality that resonates with the future. The absence of modernistic elements emphasizes a return to foundational principles, presenting a revolutionary approach to couture.

The silhouettes in this collection move away from Schiaparelli's iconic corseted designs. Instead, they explore dramatic forms that define the waist and hips through innovative techniques, offering both intensity and comfort. The tailoring incorporates subtle nods to the house's signature codes, such as keyhole and anatomical motifs, reimagined through handcrafted ceramic details. Foulards are adorned with measuring tapes and Swiss dots in silk thread, employing techniques reminiscent of Elsa's era.

Surrealist Influences and Artistic Expression

True to Schiaparelli's legacy, the collection embraces surrealist elements. Notable pieces include:

● The "Apollo" cape, reinterpreted as a cascade of diamanté bijoux in varying shades of black, gunmetal, and satin silver.

● A tulle "Squiggles and Wiggles" dress featuring shell-shaped 3D embroideries atop a voluminous white silk organdie base, complemented by a black silk organdie parasol.

● Matador-inspired jackets and coats encrusted with baroque pearls, metallic leopard spots, and black jet beads, all reflecting the maison's distinctive codes.

● The "Eyes Wide Open" embroidery, showcasing a dress with a hand-painted iris motif encased in resin cabochons, embellished with metallic thread lashes and lids, and a cascading silk tulle back.

These pieces not only showcase technical craftsmanship but also evoke a sense of wonder and artistic expression.

"Departing from traditional corsetry, the new silhouettes offer both dramatic intensity and effortless ease."