Thom Browne’s Fanciful Flight: Men’s & Women’s Fall Winter 2025 Collection at New York Fashion Week
The runway was graced by ornithologists clad in double-faced wool Thom Browne parkas, their semi-sheer argyle stockings peeking out from over-the-knee suede waders. Enter the collection’s otherworldly visitors—heritage tweeds woven in England, where timeless tailoring takes on new, daring forms. Silhouettes, inspired by the grandeur of birds, descend from strong shoulders, with jackets elongating into structured topcoats and skirts varying from mini to floor-length. A tapered cocoon-like coat, resembling the flycatcher, highlights the interplay of shape and movement.
A nod to traditional menswear tailoring is evident in every stitch, from suede elbow patches and contrast collars to modular gingham silk shirts with removable collars and cuffs. A tweed football pinnie and a chocolate suede varsity jacket pay homage to collegiate classics, while swarovski crystals and featherlike threads converge in intricate, trompe l'oeil designs. The collection's remarkable detail—3,500 swarovski crystals stitched into a dress resembling the iconic Thom Browne uniform—showcases a level of craftsmanship that is both functional and decorative.
The fantasy of flight takes shape through “exquisite corpse” drawings, as imagined birds come to life on herringbone, glen plaid, and houndstooth checks. These surreal creatures, embroidered in satin stitch and gold bullion, glide across patchwork coats and silk intarsia garments, adding whimsy to the sophisticated tailoring.
The sense of movement continues in silk duchess satin dresses and pleated skirts, with side-swept silhouettes that twist and contour to the body. Stand-collar dresses reveal bursts of vibrant repp stripe silk with every step. The collection’s playful spirit is captured in pops of yellow—evoking the high school mascot, the canary—and the sculptural beauty of off-the-shoulder origami-inspired dresses.
Accessories, too, take flight: from the beloved Hector bags to iconic Mr. and Mrs. Thom luggage, and a range of brogued suede footwear in two-tone spectator colour schemes. Some veiled by argyle stockings, others adorned with silk pom-poms and swarovski crystals, the collection leaves no detail unnoticed.
Thom Browne’s latest offering is a masterclass in blending tradition with fantasy, where sartorial elegance takes on the whimsical flight of imagination, and every garment soars with new possibilities.
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