“For Fall/Winter 2023, we wanted to challenge perceptions of beauty and femininity. We broke down the traditional wardrobe and rebuilt it with an undone attitude. Familiar silhouettes are reinterpreted through sculpting, tailoring and twisting while preserving a simplicity of form. Luxurious materials are raw-cut and weathered, logos hang off of bags and heels are broken, emphasizing the beauty of imperfection. Details that are typically hidden are brought to the surface: lingerie, interior construction, and safety pins.
This collection is about the confidence that comes from being unapologetically yourself. Women aren’t interested in rules, and every piece is designed to be endlessly mixed, layered, and individualized.” — Tory Burch
SILHOUETTES: The collection reflects a modern wardrobe of pieces to mix and match for day and evening. A dichotomy plays out between relaxed and curve-hugging shapes: Tailoring molds to the body, trousers slouch at the hem, and languid shirts graze the fingertips. In contrast, mesh dresses and lace-inset camisoles borrow from lingerie, complete with exposed boning, hook-and-eye closures and embroidered rosettes.
CONSTRUCTION: Jacquard dresses appear “backwards,” pleated skirts are slightly askew, and interior details — lingerie, construction, pins — are prominently shown, illustrating that there are no rules for how anything should be worn. Safety pin brooches nod to impromptu styling, while cashmere sweaters have pre-scrunched sleeves for an off-hand attitude.
FABRICATIONS: We were drawn to the tension of opposing materials: uber-luxurious vs. tech-y, sumptuous vs. sheer, glossy vs. matte. Some fabrics aren’t quite what they seem: A linen skirt is injected with bouncy four-way stretch and crushed velvet mimics the look of astrakhan. A plush wool coat is “pilled” while denim skirts fray at the edges, a reminder that there is beauty in wearing — and wearing out — your clothes; they take on new life.
PALETTE: Bright hits of cherry, cobalt, and peridot invigorate a palette of warm neutrals. Striking ivory dresses and coats juxtapose with black accessories and fishnet tights, while camisoles and lingerie sets in blush, ivory and black satin and mesh borrow from classic underpinnings.
HANDBAGS & SHOES: Our Pierced “toe ring” shoes evolve in new shapes, and we took an irreverent approach to our Double T logo. A sharp metal logo “falls off” a top-handle bag; mini lady bags have Double Ts wrapped around the base; and square-toe heels are adorned with asymmetrical “sliced” logos. Classic pointed pumps have a single “broken” stiletto heel, which seems to bend and pull away from the pin.
We revisited our archive and brought back some of our favorite silhouettes and details, like our Jessa chain hardware, stripped-down and reinterpreted across shoes, bags and jewelry. The Marshmallow bag also returns in quilted satin, a nod to the lingerie influence of ready-to-wear.
JEWELRY & ACCESSORIES: The season’s jewelry encourages experimentation. Bright crystal clip-ons can be worn anywhere on the ear, chunky chains are wrapped around wrists and handbags, and carved cocktail rings in semi-precious jade, quartz and moonstone are worn in casual, unprecious ways. Safety pin brooches secure dresses in the back, while trompe l’oeil safety pin earrings seem to pierce through the cartilage.
THE SHOW: Before the show at 51 Chambers Street, images of the Venus de Milo were projected and distorted on columns throughout the space.
The Hellenistic sculpture remains an icon of femininity despite thousands of years and inevitable damage — a testament to the beauty of imperfection and the power of things that last.
Wladimir Schall produced the show’s music, which included “Smalltown Boy” by Bronski Beat, “Casta Diva” by Bellini, “Sweet Dreams” by Eurythmics and “You’re So Vain” by Carly Simon.