XIMONLEE AW23 Collection Paris Fashion Week

"Like the wild hyacinth flower which on the hills is found,

Which the passing feet of the shepherds for ever tear and wound,

Until the purple blossom is trodden into the ground." - Sappho

The inspiration behind this collection grew from the idea of a character that is resilient, defensive and self-protective. An aesthetic of armour, a navigation in an increasingly hostile and weathering environment. Classic military and leather biker looks - as well as more fantastical sources such as the heroine of Nausicaä of the Valley of the Wind - serve as the inspirational figures to construct a subtle rendering of a contemporary romantic fighter.

The silhouettes of the season emphasise a kind of warped rigidity, as well as a contrast between sternness and recklessness.Chunky forearms and calves illustrate warrior-like outerwear, contrasting with some of the other more body fitted pieces. This season also marks a continuation to explore gender neutrality within menswear.

The collection has a heavy focus on the different layering, drapery and folds from fabric languages, and the contrast of different body volumes, such as the memory leather used in a blazer and biker jacket that creases like paper. Our signature hand- stitched crease work that gives an illusion of accidental temporality, appearing on pants, tank top, overcoats and jackets. This textural motif of gathering continues on accessories, such as the crossbody tote “bra bag” and arm sleeves.

This season also explores the potential of detachable pieces, such as detachable long coats and pants that transform into more dramatic, colossal and vertical silhouettes. Our signature chain lock design also appears on unisex skirts and long dresses with range of constructed details.